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Chiang Mai, Thailand December 2016

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This was not a holiday. I went to Thailand for a two weeks intensive training course to learn the art of Thai yoga massage. If I want to be the best at what I do, I need to learn from the best teachers and if the best teachers are in exotic locations then I need to visit exotic locations to learn from them.
 
The course was life changing, exhausting, energy depleting and at the same time cleared out so many blocks that after I had rested I felt completely renewed and ready to start work with refreshed enthusiasm and new talents.
 
Since I have been able to incorporate what I learnt into my massages the results for my clients have been amazing. I am amazed with myself. It seems as if magic is flowing through my fingers and healing chronic and sudden pain for people. It is wonderful to feel that I have this gift of healing.

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Day 1, Sunday: Arrival in Chiang Mai

I flew over on Air Asia, an economy airline that doesn't supply food, movies, blanket or pillow and the staff are pretty second rate too. But I made a pillow by stuffing my washing bag with my undies and t-shirts, covered myself with my Tunisian beach towel and without the flickering of movie screens and by paying a little extra, I had 3 seats to sleep on, I had a very peaceful flight.
 
I had only brought carry-on luggage with me. So after checking in at my home-stay I walked to the Sunday Walking Market to buy the clothes I would need for my stay. It worked out so well. The clothes were really cheap, appropriate for the climate and culture, and comfortable for learning massage. I looked fabulous every day in bright, baggy pants, Thai t-shirts with dragons and elephants, co-ordinated with a colourful pashima.
 
It was a good thing that I arrived early, while the stall holders were still setting up. I could shop with ease. By the time I left at 7:30, it was totally packed and almost impossible to move as I fought against the tide of people coming into the market.
 
I ate pad-thai (nearly every day and sometimes 3 times a day because it is my favourite) and mango and sticky rice pudding because Meg told me how good would be.
 
When I arrived at the gates of the old city, I received the most wonderful welcome. An orchestra began to play on all the instruments of the late King of Thailand. They were having a 3 day holiday for the King who had recently passed away. The performance outside the gates as I left the market was magnificent, with Thai dancing girls carrying flowers and men in elaborate costumes with swirling swathes of cloth representing the sea.
 
I had a wonderful first impression of Chiang Mai.

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The Sunday walking street market

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Where I stayed

Day 2, Monday: Off to School
 
My school was about a 20 minute walk from where I was staying. The scenery was not beautiful, but very tropical. The city is not made for walking, everyone gets around on motor scooters or cars. The pavements are rough, littered with rubbish with frequent, high, red-striped curbs I to climb up and down. After a few days, I tried the other side of the street which was better.
 
They have traffic police who manually control the traffic and traffic lights at peak hours. I needed them to help me cross the road. There was an overhead bridge that I climbed up and back down the other side to get back to my side of the street. Once I tried using pedestrian lights but the cars don't stop when the light turns red.
 
What struck me most about the streets was the telegraph poles and electricity cables. There were so many of them! and such a tangled mess with loops upon loops hung on every pole. Heaven only knows how the electricity people figure out where each cable goes.
 
The fences of all the official buildings and main bridges were draped with black and white cloth in mourning for their King.
 
I arrived at the sunshine Massage School. It was located down a quiet side street. The classroom was laid out with mattresses on the floor and neatly placed pillows and towels. There were windows all around. It was light and airy with the view of tops of palms and coconut trees.
 
Being the napping queen, I immediately thought it was time for a nap. A couple of the others who had arrived were meditating.
 
When everyone had arrived, we each introduced ourselves, did some chanting and said a prayer in Thai to the masters of the linage of this massage technique.
 
Om madi Padmi me hum
 
We spent the next 2 days learning leg massage, we had different partners in the mornings and afternoons.
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​Day 3, Tuesday: Trying to find Yumi
 
I was supposed to meet my Japanese friend Yumi. After getting home from school, I decided to go and try to find her. It was a long walk and when I arrived at the place she was staying we couldn't find her on the register.
 
I waited a little while and when I left, there she was, walking down the street with her two friends who were running the yoga retreat she was going on.
 
They had been for a massage.

​ She came with me to a fabulous restaurant decorated with rocks and flowers and waterfalls. I had Pad Thai, Yumi had a coconut. She had already eaten. I was starving, it was about midnight at home.
 
The coconuts were fabulous! They are young, fresh and green with the top cut off. They bring them to you on a plate with a straw and spoon to drink the coconut water then scoop out the flesh.
 
I started to walk home, but I was too tired and caught a tuk tuk.
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Dinner with Yumi

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Mango and sticky rice

Day 4, Wednesday: Chilli for lunch
 
I had lunch with different people from class each day, trying out the many different places to eat near the school. This day I went with a young couple from the UK to a street restaurant and got to know everything about them over lunch, as one does when travelling and meeting strangers. Everyone on the course was interesting but Robin and Janet were my favorites, (and Cassandra, a student on 3 months study/travel from USA.)
 
Robin was great at ordering. Most Thai people only speak their native language. A young girl having lunch with her mum and dad next to us showed us what to do. There were little slips of paper with the items on the menu and boxes you ticked to show what you wanted to order. She told us what some of the things were.

We saw everyone getting plates of chicken wings. They looked good, so we marked that on our slip of paper. But when they arrived there was only one on the plate. We stared at it for a few moments, then dutifully divided it between the 3 of us. Bahahaha then we ordered some more.
 
Everything was covered with Chilli! It was so hot and I just can't eat chilli! It was definitely an experience for me. I didn't go for lunch with Robin and Janet again till waaay into the next week when they told me they had found a place with great beef soup. (It was very good)
 
I tried to meet Yumi that night but I walked so far every day, and with all the leg massaging, my legs were exhausted and I couldn't walk fast enough to get there in time. I couldn't find her so I had dinner by myself.
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Dinner without Yumi

Day 5, Thursday: Chilli for dinner
 
The next evening at the home stay a nice lady from France who was also staying there threw a cocktail party with little snacks and some amazing cocktail she had thrown together in a jug. It was fun.
 
I got a message from Yumi saying she had just gotten in and she was going out again.
So much for travelling all that way to see her. Oh well, I would be spending Christmas with her in Phuket. I would have to tie her to my wrist.
 
The nice Indian girl I was talking with helped to see from the positive angle that even though my friend kept ditching me, if we hadn't arranged to meet in Chiang Mai I wouldn't have been doing the massage course. And the massage course was my primary focus. Yumi's was the yoga retreat.
 
It sure was a long way to go not to see someone though.
 
To go with the cocktail party one of the old ladies who owned the home-stay had made chicken soup. I loath mushrooms but can eat them when I am travelling as I like to try the local food and I don't like to appear rude or ungrateful. Not only did the soup have mushrooms, it had chillies. Only 3 little ones she told us later. We were lucky to get them she told me and the Indian girl. Yeah. Like soooo lucky! I had bitten into the little chilli! My mouth was on fire!
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Day 6, Friday: Playing in The Park

A lot of people in the course did acroyoga, a combination of acrobatics and yoga. There is a park in chaing mai where they know they can all meet up if they are there. On Friday I went with two girls from Greece, Elli and Anna to try it. It was fun. I walked on a tightrope too, which I have always wanted to do. Me and Elli helped each other to do it. Cool.

Everyone at the park went out to dinner at a vegetarian restaurant when they had had enough fun playing. I had an omelette instead of pad thai and Sticky rice with mango. It was good. Elli had pineapple fried rice served in a pineapple. I went there another day for lunch and had it. It must have been good because I have been making it since I got home and I don't cook.

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Day 7, Saturday: Warning! Never get a leg wax in Chiang Mai

I wanted to get a leg wax. I had never had a leg wax and thought it would be a good idea as everyone told me how cheap Thailand is. I felt that my legs had been having so much loving kindness from all the massaging that they needed some unkind meanness. But NOT that much!.
 
They might have the best massage but they don't do waxing. I went everywhere till I eventually found a place that did, hidden on the top floor of a shopping center. It cost as much as the 4 hour massage and it totally wrecked my legs. I came up in a rash and horrible spots that didn't go away for weeks. Nor could I shave because the razor would take the tops off the spots. When I eventually shaved I was so out of practice I took all the skin off my shin.
 
On Saturday night I accidentally left it a bit late to find dinner and was told to go across the bridge to the market. But it started to rain and I went the wrong way in the dark. I turned around and came back. I tried one grubby looking place and pointed to the fried rice on the menu and got a coke out the fridge.  (I have no idea why as I never drink coke. I was pretty frazzled the rain, the wrong direction and hunger.) But they didn't have any fried rice and I didn't like the place or the rest of the stuff they were stewing. I paid for the coke so I could go.
 
The lady stopped me and poured the coke into a plastic bag, stuck a straw in and put an elastic band around it. A coke to go. I had wondered why the bottles looked so old and worn in the fridge, they must have been refilling them for years.
 
I walked back across the bridge in the rain with my plastic bag full of coke and my scarf over my head feeling like a disgruntled duck. The guy at the home stay could have given me better directions and lent me umbrella. The streets really aren't made for walking and with the rain they immediately turned to mud and puddles. I tried to step carefully around the largest puddles while not getting run over and splashed by the cars.
 
My lovely pink thongs were getting ruined :-(
 
I spied a sign saying 'Artists Café'. That would suit me very well. It was quite empty with red candles burning on the tables and dark wooden furniture. Guess what I ordered?
 
Pad Thai. (Did you guess right?)
 
While they were making my dinner I shook out my wet things and hung them on the back of my chair and went for a look around. I was in an elegant hotel. There was a long square pond with gold fish and ceramic statues of horses leaning over the water with a maple tree planted in a circle of light in the wall. Out the back was a long garden lined with trees and comfortable lounges

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 Day 8; Sunday, day to relax
 
I went back to the artists café in the morning and sat on the comfy lounge and had eggs benedict for breakfast.
 
I had researched the best place to get a massage and sent an email booking to Fa Lanna, who had an expensive spa and a little salon with very reasonable prices.
 
I went to the Fa Lanna salon where I had booked a 4 hour session. It included a 2 hour Thai yoga massage, a clay body wrap and a facial. It was a truly spiritual experience. All the energy lines in my body were cleared out allowing the energy to flow freely and I felt the connection with the oneness of the universe that I feel during yoga and meditation. During the facial I drifted in and out of conscious sleep. It made my skin glow.
 
They gave me a card they stamped each time I got a massage. When I got to ten stamps I would get a free massage. I made it! I wanted to learn massage by receiving and I wanted them to work on my bad hip and shoulder. My hip is good now. My neck and shoulder are ok. On my last day in Chiang Mai I booked a 3 hour massage and that included my free hour oil massage.
 
I took their idea and have a reward scheme in the studio now where your 10th massage is complementary.
 
I loved the little salon especially because they were playing my favorite music that I bought in India called "Grace" . The salon became my one of my little homes away from home. They came to recognize me and knew how hard I was studying at school, as it was quite difficult to organize appointments because I was mostly in class. We managed though by communicating via emails.
 
In the evening I went to the Walking market again. I really liked the walking market. This time I was looking for souvenirs to give to friends and family. Again I got there early while it was still light and I could move around without being crushed by the crowds that thronged there as the evening went on.

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Day 9 Monday: My New Home

​I was moving house! I was so looking forward to it, where I was going looked so beautiful in the pictures.
 
The home stay had been ok, except for the bad directions they often gave me and the bathroom wasn't very nice (it didn't have a toilet brush), and they never took our my rubbish, which would have been ok if they had told me where to throw it myself. There was a vegan who was staying there who told us horrible stories about pigs and dogs. I didn't like going to sit in the garden because I didn't want to come across him. But the place was plain and simple and it was easy to get to school.
 
I caught a tuk tuk on Monday morning to take my luggage. I had bought a suitcase fit all my stuff in. It was cheaper (and more fun) than paying for luggage on the aeroplane. At school they put the baggage in a store room for me.
 
In the afternoon it took me a little while to find a tuk tuk to take me to a different part of the city called Santithum. Eventually one came along and we worked out where to go on google maps. I asked him how much. He said 70 baht. I said "Hmmm. How about 100 baht?" He had a little laugh and agreed, it was probably the first time he had ever been bargained up, but 70 baht was too cheap.
 
I had learnt to pay 100 baht for a tuk tuk and 20 baht on a red bus. The red bus could pick up other people along the way and was often quite slow on its roundabout route. A couple of times I had to get out because it was taking too long, then the driver wouldn't take my money or only 10 baht. The others had rented a motor scooter or bicycle but as I had promised to return alive I didn't want to try one in the dense traffic.
 
The tuk tuk let me out at the gates of my guest house. It was a tropical haven. Later when I described it to Cassandra she asked if I was describing paradise. It was so lovely. The breakfast room was a pavilion, open on two sides surrounded by a moat with a waterfall and giant carp I fed each morning. Ancient fig roots held up stone walls guarding the guest house and the garden had buddha statues and meandering pathways between the  greenery.
 
I was in a large double room with a high lofty ceiling and a cupola up in the treetops. With windows all around the curved walls, I felt like I was living in a tree house. From the balcony I looked down into the tropical garden and ancient buildings. The interior was modern with dimmers and a light that came on when I opened the cupboard doors. It had a little lounge with thai cushions I could sit on to study or read. My huge bed was comfy (not hard) draped romantically in mosquito netting with four pillows.
 
After I settled in I set off on an adventure to get my dinner. I looked at the food places all along the street, (there were so many) and bought some pad thai. I got dinner there a few times and used to have jokes with the cook.
 
I had been wishing for a chocolate milk. It was difficult to get the stall holders to understand what I wanted, but in the end I had managed to teach them to say "chocolate milk" with a perfect Australian accent. I ended up with a chocolate milk with ice cubes. And I bought some sushi for a few cents.
 
I had a little feast when I got back, eating in the pavilion watching the giant carp and fighting with the mosquitoes over my food. Lucky for me mosquitoes don't bite me for some reason but they got a bit overwhelming and when I had finished my dinner I took my chocolate milk up to my room, wondering how to drink it as they had forgotten to give me a straw. I poured the milk into a mug through the plastic hole in the top, leaving the ice trapped in the cup. as the ice melted it mixed with the thick chocolate in the bottom of the cup and I kept topping up my mug. It was perfect and just what I had been wishing for.

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​Day 10, Tuesday: Golden Buddha and the black cat
 
Every morning the manager made me a fresh breakfast with a pancakes,  fruit and an omelette . They also served coffee just how I like it. He rang for a tuk tuk to take me to school, it was too far to walk.
 
For dinner that night I arranged to meet one of the people in the course under the "big ford sign" at the gate to the old city nearest to Santitham. I went for a massage after school then had all afternoon to explore.
 
I had one of my favorite moments in Chiang Mai. I found a tiny golden temple that had been enshrouded with people when the walking market was on. Now it was serene and almost deserted. I went in to meditate under the sleepy gaze of giant golden Buddha's. It was very distracting, I wanted to gaze back up at them and energy was buzzing all around me. The aura was magnetic, monks were chanting their evening prays in a temple next to me. I tried to persist in clearing my mind, resting in stillness and connecting with my true self until a cat appeared. It crept out from under the giant Buddha and stealthily slunk up onto the alter and helped itself to the offerings that had been left out, obviously for its dinner. It was a shiny, sleek black cat.
 
I gave up trying to meditate and realized that I was already in the moment. I was in a sacred temple accompanied by the chanting of buddhist monks, with golden Buddhas in a buddhist country. The energy in the temple was zinging, the power surged through my aura, I was in perfectly tuned connection with the universe. Pure realization.
 
I stayed in the temple until the mosquitoes became too powerful for my magic aura and started trying to annoy me. Outside it was almost dark. I saw the chanting monks and another open temple with golden statues. I think it was Kali because she had many arms and necklaces and she was dancing.
 
I am always grateful to have been blessed by my experiences but I forget how lucky I am to moments like these, they happen so often it is getting harder to recognize them. Moments of enchantment have become what is normal instead of what is unusual. I forget that most people don't have these experiences. I was talking to a stranger in the tyre shop, at first he thought I was making up stories, my experiences are so out of the realm of most people's experiences, while to me, they just ordinary.
 
I waited under the Ford sign where I was going to meet my friend from school. I waited 15 minutes and when he hadn't come I chose a place in the food market to get my dinner. I ordered BBQ fish cooked in silver foil. It was delicious.
 
I had a nice walk home, it wasn't too far.
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Day 11, ​Wednesday: Hard yakka
 
All the energy work, receiving the massages was often very emotional. It releases old traumas stored in your body. I worked through issues I don't usually have a way of dealing with. I especially didn't like have tummy massages, all my sadness is stored in there. Just the thought would start tears welling up in my eyes. When I had to have it done, there was no way I could stop the tears from flowing and sometimes we had to stop so I could outside to get some fresh air. It is good though, because the trauma is worked through and released and when I got back home I was able to find constructive ways of dealing with the problem.
 
We had a secret ballot on Wednesday to determine who would be our partner for our test on Friday. I got the stretchiest girl in the class, one of the girls from Greece, Anna. It was fun knowing we were both so stretchy, we could really push each other to extremes, literally.  
 
The course was getting harder. As we learnt more, there were more to remember. All the moves were so complicated and there were so many.

After school I was working on filling my reward card up at Fa lanna salon.
 
I was so grateful to have such a relaxing haven to return to at the end of long tiring days.
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Day 12, Thursday; Getting nervous and exhausted
 
We spent all day practicing the massage, trying to remember how to do it without looking at our manual. The test the next day was daunting. We were all physically exhausted and emotionally drained.
 
On my way home from my massage that evening I had set myself of going to the flower market to buy Sicha and Aom a big bunch of flowers each. Sicha's were yellow and Aom's were purple.
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​Day 13, Friday; Finished hooray!!!
 
Sicha and Aom loved their flowers so much. I think I picked exactly the right colours for them. A few of the girls gave me a few baht so they weren’t just from me. 

Sicha, our teacher said not to think of the test as an exam. We needed to think of it as a massage we were giving to our friend. She wanted to see what we had learnt over the two weeks. We weren’t being passed or failed only on the test, we were being evaluated all through the time we had been learning.
 
The test went for two hours or more. It was so exhausting doing such a physically demanding massage for two hours. I remembered most things but I did them in my own order because I couldn't remember the order in the book.
 
We all passed. When Sicha was awarding us our certificates at the end of the day she said that while we are learning we can follow the order in the book. As we get more comfortable with the massage it will become intuitive and to do the moves in the order that feels right in the moment. I whispered to Aom that that was what I had done. She said she had seen that. I giggled that I had been in the moment.
 
Later that evening we all met up for a farewell dinner. We met at the eating market where I had the BBQ fish in the silver foil. I asked for it again. Everyone was impressed when it arrived but it wasn't cooked hot this time and I took it back for more cooking. Everyone was very impressed when it arrived a second time, they thought I was having a second fish.
 
We decided to go and do something else fun. The rest were on motor bikes, Cassandra had a push bike without a light that she didn't like riding at night so she and we walked together to the East gate where the concert had been on my first night in Chiang Mai. Cassandra and I had formed bond.
 
There wasn't actually anything happening when we got there and we all decided to go our separate ways, , some of the others went going up to lounge bar. I said good bye to my favorite couple from the UK, Robin and Janet, they had been a wonderful help to me. Me and Cassandra headed back the way we had come to go partying at a dance club we had passed. I got a Motherfucker, something with gin, vodka and blue Curacao and who knows what else. It was a real motherfucker.
 
We went onto another packed place when the first one closed. It soon closed too and some of the crowd moved into a different room where they served coffee. Cassandra wanted to stay, her hostel was just up the street so I left her to continue her adventure.
 
The tuk-tuk driver I got wasn't quite right in the head. He kept asking if I wanted to keep on more party and rudely asking how old I was and if I was married. I told him I am 2000 years old, I hoped I wouldn't have to use karate on him. I got out somewhere in the vicinity of the guest house because he got lost. I love google maps, I walked the rest of the way in a few minutes.
 
Oh what a wonderful relief that everything was completed! I was a bit spinny from 2 strong drinks. It was the first time I'd been partying in a while.
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​Day 14, Saturday: Last day in Chiang Mai
 
I spent the morning resting on the daybed in the breakfast room among the luscious green plants with the sound of running water and the giant carp in my tropical haven. There wasn't anyone else there. I was totally spent, totally drained.
 
Checkout was at midday. I left my luggage to collect later and asked if they would have a taxi waiting for me at 7pm to take me to the airport.
 
I went for my last walk. I went to the little golden temple and gave them an offering. The monk at the door refused to make an effort to understand me, but someone else helped. As I left the monk had to smile because I glow so brightly.
 
I went for my last massage. I had it in a little private room. I had wondered what they were like. The other times I was in the room with 4 mattresses divided by curtains. It had become a bit awkward  occasionally because I can bend and stretch so far.
 
Afterwards I walked to the park where they did the acroyoga where I met up with some of the others. Cassandra turned up and we went for our last time together at a restaurant where you sit upstairs with your feet hanging down over the edge.
 
I didn't have time to eat my coconut so I took it with me to eat while I waited for the plane that would take me to Phuket where I would meet Yumi for Christmas.
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