Diary of My first Tour
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South East Asia Tour: Cambodia, Laos, Bangkok, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Thailand.
Arrival in Siem Reap
We had a good flight, 3 seats each up in the quiet zone of AirAsia.
A van from the hotel was there to pick us up. Bunna came to greet us too, I gave him a big hug, it was so nice to see him again.
We had fresh breakfast by the pool at the Sonalong Boutique Village and then went upstairs, amongst the tree tops, to our rooms.
After we settled in, we had a swim while one of the girls went with Bunna to meet her friend who was flying in from Norway to join the tour. What a pleasure it was to have her on our journey, she was so much fun.
I didn't have too much planned for the first day, not after the long flight. We were supposed to go and get our temple pass and watch the sunset but a huge storm blew up with thunder & lightening so we didn't do that. We went for a massage instead.
It was teaming with rain. Bunna and his friend, our other tuktuk driver for our time in Siem Reap, came to pick us up. I put the other 3 girls in Bunna's tuktuk because I knew what a safe driver he was and I went on a crazy drive through the pouring rain in the other. We thought we were going to tip out a few times, I had to be pulled back in.
We eventually all arrived in one piece at Lemongrass Garden Massage and Spa. All the girls were very pleased with their treatments, a little stronger than what they are used to receiving in Australia. We went back a second time during our stay.
For dinner I had made a booking up the road for a 7 course dinner at a fine dinning restaurant. I'd tried to explain to them in Australia about this fabulous restaurant I had found, but they didn't get why I was so excited till we walked in and saw the table set with polished silverware and gleaming wine glasses. Then the exquisite food arrived course by course, so delicious and beautifully presented.
It was the lady from Norway's birthday feast. I ordered a birthday cake which unfortunately we were too full to eat and it ended up a squashed and melted mess covered in ants when we went to visit Mt Kulen Waterfall. Anyway, it was a nice thought and the dinner was scrumptious (I hope I haven't used up all my words for delicious dinners as we had many)
Because of the mud from the storm we didn't want to walk back and we all squashed together into one tuktuk - I don't know how & the little bike pulling us only just made it. It all added to the merriment.
Near the end of dinner, someone made a squeeky noise on her chair that sounded like a fart and we all started giggling. Then we couldn't stop. We were all so tired we were nearly delirious and stuffed with fabulous food and so happy at the start of our big adventure that we just couldn't stop lauging at the farting noise. We laughed till our bellies hurt and were still laughing when arrived back at the hotel to try and sleep.
A van from the hotel was there to pick us up. Bunna came to greet us too, I gave him a big hug, it was so nice to see him again.
We had fresh breakfast by the pool at the Sonalong Boutique Village and then went upstairs, amongst the tree tops, to our rooms.
After we settled in, we had a swim while one of the girls went with Bunna to meet her friend who was flying in from Norway to join the tour. What a pleasure it was to have her on our journey, she was so much fun.
I didn't have too much planned for the first day, not after the long flight. We were supposed to go and get our temple pass and watch the sunset but a huge storm blew up with thunder & lightening so we didn't do that. We went for a massage instead.
It was teaming with rain. Bunna and his friend, our other tuktuk driver for our time in Siem Reap, came to pick us up. I put the other 3 girls in Bunna's tuktuk because I knew what a safe driver he was and I went on a crazy drive through the pouring rain in the other. We thought we were going to tip out a few times, I had to be pulled back in.
We eventually all arrived in one piece at Lemongrass Garden Massage and Spa. All the girls were very pleased with their treatments, a little stronger than what they are used to receiving in Australia. We went back a second time during our stay.
For dinner I had made a booking up the road for a 7 course dinner at a fine dinning restaurant. I'd tried to explain to them in Australia about this fabulous restaurant I had found, but they didn't get why I was so excited till we walked in and saw the table set with polished silverware and gleaming wine glasses. Then the exquisite food arrived course by course, so delicious and beautifully presented.
It was the lady from Norway's birthday feast. I ordered a birthday cake which unfortunately we were too full to eat and it ended up a squashed and melted mess covered in ants when we went to visit Mt Kulen Waterfall. Anyway, it was a nice thought and the dinner was scrumptious (I hope I haven't used up all my words for delicious dinners as we had many)
Because of the mud from the storm we didn't want to walk back and we all squashed together into one tuktuk - I don't know how & the little bike pulling us only just made it. It all added to the merriment.
Near the end of dinner, someone made a squeeky noise on her chair that sounded like a fart and we all started giggling. Then we couldn't stop. We were all so tired we were nearly delirious and stuffed with fabulous food and so happy at the start of our big adventure that we just couldn't stop lauging at the farting noise. We laughed till our bellies hurt and were still laughing when arrived back at the hotel to try and sleep.
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Temples In The Jungle
On the first full day in Siem Reap I wanted to take the girls to see the temples in the jungle. That was why I had brought them.
The energy from the trees in the jungle is powerful. I can feel the energy that pulsates from those ancient temples. I love it so much. It fills me up and restores me.
Early in the morning we did yoga in the garden.
After breakfast we went to buy the temple pass. It is an individual pass that requires a photo.
I thought the girls were right behind me when I got to the counter but no, they were shopping. We hadn't even got to a market yet!
It is stressful being a tour guide, watching out for everyone and keeping them together as a group. I had to synchronize timing for food and toilet stops. I hope the girls had lovely relaxing holiday, but I found it exhausting. I was always working and organizing and checking. And with so much on my mind it made it difficult to sleep so I survived on only a few hours a night, without the opportunity for an afternoon nap which is vital for me.
Anyway I went back and got them and they had beautiful smiling photos taken for the 3 day pass for the temples. Wherever we went, the guards always loved that we were so smiling and happy. It made them smile and feel happy.
One of my intentions on returning to Canbodia was to make the people happy. I felt that last time they were sad and didn't understand what a beautiful place they live in. They have suffered so much under the reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge and the bombing of the Vietnam war. It felt like they were much happier and prosperous this time.
The energy from the trees in the jungle is powerful. I can feel the energy that pulsates from those ancient temples. I love it so much. It fills me up and restores me.
Early in the morning we did yoga in the garden.
After breakfast we went to buy the temple pass. It is an individual pass that requires a photo.
I thought the girls were right behind me when I got to the counter but no, they were shopping. We hadn't even got to a market yet!
It is stressful being a tour guide, watching out for everyone and keeping them together as a group. I had to synchronize timing for food and toilet stops. I hope the girls had lovely relaxing holiday, but I found it exhausting. I was always working and organizing and checking. And with so much on my mind it made it difficult to sleep so I survived on only a few hours a night, without the opportunity for an afternoon nap which is vital for me.
Anyway I went back and got them and they had beautiful smiling photos taken for the 3 day pass for the temples. Wherever we went, the guards always loved that we were so smiling and happy. It made them smile and feel happy.
One of my intentions on returning to Canbodia was to make the people happy. I felt that last time they were sad and didn't understand what a beautiful place they live in. They have suffered so much under the reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge and the bombing of the Vietnam war. It felt like they were much happier and prosperous this time.
Our first temple was Preah Kahn with a double tier temple that is most likely where the dancers danced. I explained that a linga is a phallic symbol and the square it is in is a yoni. Water flows around it and out a spout for fertility. There are 1000's in the rivers for fertility for the rice crops.
The police guards like to nab the tourists and take photos for a tip. It's good, because they know the best spots for you stand to take a good photo.
The next stop was the island temple across the long bridge. Last time I walked across, it was so hot and I was so tired and I got all the way across to see a dirty pond that was once a beautiful fountain and an offering cave and mosquitos.
I told them it was one thousand miles across the bridge & as I had already been I wasn't going again. When they asked how long it took to walk the 1000 miles and I said 5 minutes, they rolled their eyes at me. I told them that it was not very spectacular but in the big scheme of Ankor Wat it held great significance. They enjoyed the walk across the moat I think.
I stayed behind and read about it in the book. When it was made, it was encrusted in gold and jewels. It was the sacred island of healing where they grew magic herbs and people came to be cured of sickness and absolved of their sins.
I swapped around tuktuks as we went around so I could share what knowledge I have about the Ancient Angkor Kingdom and King Javaraman VII who built many of the temples.
We had an average lunch then went to visit one of my favorite temples, Pre Rup. I made them close their eyes and took them through the old front entrance, as the main entrance now is the back. There is a huge fig tree growing on top of the huge carved head of the gate keeper - the roots look like dread locks growing around the benevolent face of Ankoloshvara.
The police guards like to nab the tourists and take photos for a tip. It's good, because they know the best spots for you stand to take a good photo.
The next stop was the island temple across the long bridge. Last time I walked across, it was so hot and I was so tired and I got all the way across to see a dirty pond that was once a beautiful fountain and an offering cave and mosquitos.
I told them it was one thousand miles across the bridge & as I had already been I wasn't going again. When they asked how long it took to walk the 1000 miles and I said 5 minutes, they rolled their eyes at me. I told them that it was not very spectacular but in the big scheme of Ankor Wat it held great significance. They enjoyed the walk across the moat I think.
I stayed behind and read about it in the book. When it was made, it was encrusted in gold and jewels. It was the sacred island of healing where they grew magic herbs and people came to be cured of sickness and absolved of their sins.
I swapped around tuktuks as we went around so I could share what knowledge I have about the Ancient Angkor Kingdom and King Javaraman VII who built many of the temples.
We had an average lunch then went to visit one of my favorite temples, Pre Rup. I made them close their eyes and took them through the old front entrance, as the main entrance now is the back. There is a huge fig tree growing on top of the huge carved head of the gate keeper - the roots look like dread locks growing around the benevolent face of Ankoloshvara.
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I suggested that it would be a nice place to do some shopping in the little village. They got some pretty tops and skirts. I bought some postcards from a little girl, I remember from my last visit, then the other lady was upset because I didn't buy hers but I bought a key-ring from her with nail clippers with Angkor Wat.
It was so fun there. There was a little naked baby playing with a mud puddle. He was so happy, he just couldn't stop smiling. He made a special friend with our lady from Norway.
We asked the children if they had been to school. It was funny, the whole conversation went around in a circle about morning school and afternoon school and tomorrow there would be no school because it's Sunday except that tomorrow would be Saturday.
When we were leaving, the little girl wanted me to buy more things, I said she should be happy as I brought these people there to buy lots of things. I said she will never be happy while she wants more. I told her the way to be happy is to be content with what she has. She said "thank you." I had thought about that little girl a lot in the past year and how I might be able to help her. I will be interested to see her again next time.
It was so fun there. There was a little naked baby playing with a mud puddle. He was so happy, he just couldn't stop smiling. He made a special friend with our lady from Norway.
We asked the children if they had been to school. It was funny, the whole conversation went around in a circle about morning school and afternoon school and tomorrow there would be no school because it's Sunday except that tomorrow would be Saturday.
When we were leaving, the little girl wanted me to buy more things, I said she should be happy as I brought these people there to buy lots of things. I said she will never be happy while she wants more. I told her the way to be happy is to be content with what she has. She said "thank you." I had thought about that little girl a lot in the past year and how I might be able to help her. I will be interested to see her again next time.
Our last temple of the day was The Tomb Raider temple. It was disappointing for me, last year I only had to share it with a few other people and I could climb high walls and sit up with the trees and meditate. This time I had to share it with hordes of Chinese bus tourists and workmen who were doing massive reconstruction of the temple. We had to follow a wooden walkway.
The trees are massive in this temple, the roots are incredible, they glow with a golden sheen and radiate the heat of the day.
Since I got home I happened to rent the movie "The King's Men" and was surprised to see Tomb Raider Temple had once again been turned into a movie set. A bit ironic as I had joked as we walked around about the terrible state of ruin that the movie people left behind. I have an idea that the money for the reconstruction was probably part of the deal to make the movie there.
That was enough temples for the day, we went back to Sonalong Hotel and swam and relaxed.
We had cocktails and dinner at the hotel, I recommended Fish Amok, a traditional Cambodian meal. It became an instant favorite. I've even cooked it since I came home and have given the girls my simplified recipe. The cocktails were extremely nice there. But I had explained that if they chose to have a drink it would not be possible to meditate in the evenings. Cocktail hour wasn't what I had envisaged as it was planned as a spiritual tour, but it was fun.
The trees are massive in this temple, the roots are incredible, they glow with a golden sheen and radiate the heat of the day.
Since I got home I happened to rent the movie "The King's Men" and was surprised to see Tomb Raider Temple had once again been turned into a movie set. A bit ironic as I had joked as we walked around about the terrible state of ruin that the movie people left behind. I have an idea that the money for the reconstruction was probably part of the deal to make the movie there.
That was enough temples for the day, we went back to Sonalong Hotel and swam and relaxed.
We had cocktails and dinner at the hotel, I recommended Fish Amok, a traditional Cambodian meal. It became an instant favorite. I've even cooked it since I came home and have given the girls my simplified recipe. The cocktails were extremely nice there. But I had explained that if they chose to have a drink it would not be possible to meditate in the evenings. Cocktail hour wasn't what I had envisaged as it was planned as a spiritual tour, but it was fun.
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Mountain of the Lychees
We went on a long excursion in a mini van to Kulen Mountain or Mountain of the Lychees, to see the Sleeping Buddha, Kulen waterfall, and Kebal Spean. We drove through the country side and they saw how the Cambodian people live, mostly in simple wooden houses on stilts. I think the stilts are to keep the houses cool and it also provides an undercover, outdoor room.
I was quite surprised at the advancement in just one year from houses that looked like they were about to fall down to sturdy wooden houses.
We visited Bantay Srei, or Lady Temple on the way. A beautiful and intricately carved Hindu temple that has been badly damaged by the bombing in the wars.
I was quite surprised at the advancement in just one year from houses that looked like they were about to fall down to sturdy wooden houses.
We visited Bantay Srei, or Lady Temple on the way. A beautiful and intricately carved Hindu temple that has been badly damaged by the bombing in the wars.
We went to a sacred place place, in the middle of the jungle in the middle of nowhere up a steep mountain along a dirt road. The Reclining Buddha is at the birthplace of the Khmer Empire is in the jungle. Up the top of a tall stairway is a sleeping Buddha, a giant golden carving in the top of a huge rock at a place in the middle of the jungle where the Khmer Kingdom began. It has an incredible power.
Our guide asked me if it was the same as before. There weren't so many begging ladies or people selling healing herbs on the way up the stairs. But the experience was similar... I didn't feel anything much as I climbed the steep staircase up the side of the huge rock. I filed around the Buddha, there is a relic of a piece of his bone there. As I come down the other side and reach the bottom I started to feel the magic of the place and the hair on my arms stood up on end.
Our guide asked me if it was the same as before. There weren't so many begging ladies or people selling healing herbs on the way up the stairs. But the experience was similar... I didn't feel anything much as I climbed the steep staircase up the side of the huge rock. I filed around the Buddha, there is a relic of a piece of his bone there. As I come down the other side and reach the bottom I started to feel the magic of the place and the hair on my arms stood up on end.
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We came down the mountain in the van and stopped to have a look at the river of 1000 lingas, where the water flows over the carvings and then on to the rice paddy's to fertilize the crops.
Then up another hill to the waterfall. I was starving. We brought the birthday cake with us for morning tea. Unfortunately now is when we discover it has melted and is being devoured by ants.
Bunna saved the day. When we went for a swim in the waterfall, he went and bought us beautiful fresh pineapple. It was just what we needed to revive us. Waterfall and pineapple. What more could you need to recharge energy in a hot tropical jungle.
Little fish nibbled us if we stood still in the big pool of water that the huge waterfall crashes into from above.
We drove down from the mountain. There are fabulous scenic views. Lunch was actually fairly awful, all the lunch places were fairly awful but dinners were delicious which made up for it.
Then up another hill to the waterfall. I was starving. We brought the birthday cake with us for morning tea. Unfortunately now is when we discover it has melted and is being devoured by ants.
Bunna saved the day. When we went for a swim in the waterfall, he went and bought us beautiful fresh pineapple. It was just what we needed to revive us. Waterfall and pineapple. What more could you need to recharge energy in a hot tropical jungle.
Little fish nibbled us if we stood still in the big pool of water that the huge waterfall crashes into from above.
We drove down from the mountain. There are fabulous scenic views. Lunch was actually fairly awful, all the lunch places were fairly awful but dinners were delicious which made up for it.
After lunch was the mammoth trek to a sacred stream with ancient rock carvings. I hadn't been there before. It was 1500m up a mountain side. I was so proud of the girls, it certainly wasn't easy, but we did it. We walked through a magical forest. It was so still and calm with flocks of butterflies in different colour fluttering around, each colour fluttered with it's own group.
We scaled right up to the top where there are carvings in the river of lingas and the hindu gods, Vishnu, Brahma and Lakshmi. We saw an orange crab in the water
A storm was brewing. We could hear rumbling thunder as we started to make our way back down. We descended a flight of steps to where the water falls from the stream above. The water is sacred and washes away sins. I balanced carefully and did Natarajanasana - dancers pose under the cascade of water. Not everybody was so careful, one of the ladies slipped and gracefully slid all the way down the rock to land in a rockpool. She lost all her fear after that, she was no longer scared of storms.
The descent was quite precarious. It was very steep and some of the stepping stones were slippery with sand.
We scaled right up to the top where there are carvings in the river of lingas and the hindu gods, Vishnu, Brahma and Lakshmi. We saw an orange crab in the water
A storm was brewing. We could hear rumbling thunder as we started to make our way back down. We descended a flight of steps to where the water falls from the stream above. The water is sacred and washes away sins. I balanced carefully and did Natarajanasana - dancers pose under the cascade of water. Not everybody was so careful, one of the ladies slipped and gracefully slid all the way down the rock to land in a rockpool. She lost all her fear after that, she was no longer scared of storms.
The descent was quite precarious. It was very steep and some of the stepping stones were slippery with sand.
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Our day wasn't over yet. We needed to get back to the hotel, shower and change to be ready to go out for a show. We went to a shadow puppet theater. It was close by. I had always wanted to go to a shadow puppet show. My uncle had brought some back for us when we were children and we used to put up a sheet with a light behind it and put on shows in the lounge room. At last my wish was fulfilled.
It was a pretty wild and crazy show put on by youth. The theatre was called Bambu Stage. It was on the site of a former restaurant and after the show I had arranged for them to prepare a dinner for us. The table was all laid out with so many dishes. It was fabulous.
What a big day.
It was a pretty wild and crazy show put on by youth. The theatre was called Bambu Stage. It was on the site of a former restaurant and after the show I had arranged for them to prepare a dinner for us. The table was all laid out with so many dishes. It was fabulous.
What a big day.
Angkor Wat & Breakfast in the jungle.
We woke up while it was really dark. Bunna and Ramon came to drive us through the quiet streets to Angkor Wat. It was a surreal walk across the moat on the long floating bridge with its floating sensation in the blackness feeling our way with our feet. The crescent moon was shining brightly.
A wide ancient stone walkway leads to the main building through the expansive grounds. As we approached the moon hung suspended in the sky directly above the highest parapet. It is built on the design of Mt Meru, the sacred, five-peaked home of the god’s in Hindu and Buddhist mythology. Mt Meru is the physical, metaphysical and spiritual center of the universe around which all the planets in the solar system and the sun rotate. And we were here to watch the dawn and honour the spiritual essence of this ancient site. We found an unobtrusive spot next to an old temple and spread our yoga mats on the sandy ground. This was a moment to treasure, we moved through salute to the sun at own pace. I breathed in the moment as I moved through my practice.
I felt like I had achieved something in my life, to bring an aspect of spirituality to the biggest spiritual complex in the world among onlookers who were gathered by the swamp waiting for the sun to emerge. Angkor Wat is one of the top tourist destinations in the world and draws many people so they can say they are spiritual, not necessarily because they are spiritual. Tours that don’t have any affinity with the Hindu or Buddhist belief system come because it is an amazing place. I wanted my visit to feel authentic
A wide ancient stone walkway leads to the main building through the expansive grounds. As we approached the moon hung suspended in the sky directly above the highest parapet. It is built on the design of Mt Meru, the sacred, five-peaked home of the god’s in Hindu and Buddhist mythology. Mt Meru is the physical, metaphysical and spiritual center of the universe around which all the planets in the solar system and the sun rotate. And we were here to watch the dawn and honour the spiritual essence of this ancient site. We found an unobtrusive spot next to an old temple and spread our yoga mats on the sandy ground. This was a moment to treasure, we moved through salute to the sun at own pace. I breathed in the moment as I moved through my practice.
I felt like I had achieved something in my life, to bring an aspect of spirituality to the biggest spiritual complex in the world among onlookers who were gathered by the swamp waiting for the sun to emerge. Angkor Wat is one of the top tourist destinations in the world and draws many people so they can say they are spiritual, not necessarily because they are spiritual. Tours that don’t have any affinity with the Hindu or Buddhist belief system come because it is an amazing place. I wanted my visit to feel authentic
We could see the swamp as the morning light gradually became clearer. It was alive under the water, I realized it was full of creepy swamp monsters, I think they were slimy eels. Pink lotus flowers floated on the surface that reflected the orange light of dawn as the clouds transformed from grey to vivid colours and the sun emerged over the horizon. The crescent moon above the pointed towers gradually faded with the night.
The colours faded as quickly as they had appeared and we set off to explore inside the huge ancient monument. There were novice monks inside to bless us. My young monk didn’t seem very happy I told him he needed to feel happy in his good heart. I squished myself into a small opening for a yoga photo. I climbed up flights of incredibly high, steep stairs, around a courtyard with steeper stairs ascending to the top of the turrets we had been gazing at from below. I clambered over and through some walls and windows and eventually made my way through the maze of corridors till I found myself out the back door. I could have walked out the gate and off into the untamed jungle but I went back the way I had come, collecting my tour group on the way and we all set off back along the wide, ancient stone walkway that leads away from the main building and back through the expansive grounds. The sun was shining, our shadows were long as they danced across the old uneven surface of the stones.
The colours faded as quickly as they had appeared and we set off to explore inside the huge ancient monument. There were novice monks inside to bless us. My young monk didn’t seem very happy I told him he needed to feel happy in his good heart. I squished myself into a small opening for a yoga photo. I climbed up flights of incredibly high, steep stairs, around a courtyard with steeper stairs ascending to the top of the turrets we had been gazing at from below. I clambered over and through some walls and windows and eventually made my way through the maze of corridors till I found myself out the back door. I could have walked out the gate and off into the untamed jungle but I went back the way I had come, collecting my tour group on the way and we all set off back along the wide, ancient stone walkway that leads away from the main building and back through the expansive grounds. The sun was shining, our shadows were long as they danced across the old uneven surface of the stones.
We met a humorous character on our way out, his name was James, as in James Bond. He was funny and not annoying like the hordes of other hawkers trying to sell us coffee, though he did wish would go and buy breakfast from his stall, number 7 as in 007. He had a unique style of calling, raising his voice to a shrill call at the end of words in a sing song way, different to the dull monotone of the bored women. He was enjoying his job. We explained that we already had breakfast organized, I said I was a tour guide and I would remember him for next time. He said he could see we were professionals as we had our mats and the big camera and back-packs. I think my traditional clothing makes me look as if I belong, especially as they are faded and well worn.
People often ask me about clothing when I travel. I have learnt that it best to take minimal clothing, just enough for a few days and then to purchase what I need when I am there. Clothing overseas is cheap compared to the extortionist price of new clothes in Australia, it benefit’s the economy of the country I am visiting, and doesn’t support sweat-shop labour of the Australian chain stores. The clothes suit the climate and the season, and I blend in with the locals, or at least with the tourists who are trying to blend in with the locals. And I don’t get harassed, someone suggested that the local population probably thinks that perhaps I live and work there.
We found Bunna and Ramon and they took us to my favorite restaurant in the jungle for breakfast. The restaurant is owned by Bunna’s close friends. The pancakes were enormous, more like a cake than a pan and covered in layers of fresh fruit. My fried rice and egg was yummy, the juice was freshly cut and squeezed by Bunna. I encouraged the girls to do some shopping in the little village as it had good little jungle shops for clothes and bags and things.
I wanted the girls to experience Bayon temple, with the 216 giant carved faces of Lokeshvara, the Bodhisattva of compassion. I had such an incredible experience there last time when I had meditated in tiny monks hole and seen the doorway between the the spirit realm and world of the body.
We drove back down the corridor of the elephants with it’s extraordinary stone carvings. It used to be the parade ground for the king. Bayon Temple sits at the end. I took them in but they got freaked out by the small rooms and dark spaces you have to go through. Unfortunately I couldn’t persuade them to scale the steep stairs that go up to the top. I went up, I didn’t want to miss out on the incredible huge faces carved with the most compassionate expression sitting above the tops of the trees. I didn’t have time to enjoy my visit, but at least I was there.
People often ask me about clothing when I travel. I have learnt that it best to take minimal clothing, just enough for a few days and then to purchase what I need when I am there. Clothing overseas is cheap compared to the extortionist price of new clothes in Australia, it benefit’s the economy of the country I am visiting, and doesn’t support sweat-shop labour of the Australian chain stores. The clothes suit the climate and the season, and I blend in with the locals, or at least with the tourists who are trying to blend in with the locals. And I don’t get harassed, someone suggested that the local population probably thinks that perhaps I live and work there.
We found Bunna and Ramon and they took us to my favorite restaurant in the jungle for breakfast. The restaurant is owned by Bunna’s close friends. The pancakes were enormous, more like a cake than a pan and covered in layers of fresh fruit. My fried rice and egg was yummy, the juice was freshly cut and squeezed by Bunna. I encouraged the girls to do some shopping in the little village as it had good little jungle shops for clothes and bags and things.
I wanted the girls to experience Bayon temple, with the 216 giant carved faces of Lokeshvara, the Bodhisattva of compassion. I had such an incredible experience there last time when I had meditated in tiny monks hole and seen the doorway between the the spirit realm and world of the body.
We drove back down the corridor of the elephants with it’s extraordinary stone carvings. It used to be the parade ground for the king. Bayon Temple sits at the end. I took them in but they got freaked out by the small rooms and dark spaces you have to go through. Unfortunately I couldn’t persuade them to scale the steep stairs that go up to the top. I went up, I didn’t want to miss out on the incredible huge faces carved with the most compassionate expression sitting above the tops of the trees. I didn’t have time to enjoy my visit, but at least I was there.
I met them at exactly the same time as they got back to the tuktuks, I surprised them, they didn’t see me coming from behind. We talked with Bunna and Ramon for a while about the sad state of the political system in Cambodia, there doesn’t seem much that can be done about it. And they taght us some Cambodian words, which of course I have forgotten, I am so bad at retaining foreign words. Language has never seemed to a barrier when I travel though. It occurred to me that my training in the performing arts might have a lot to do with it as I am very good at acting out phrases and ideas and using mime to ask for what I want.
It had been an early start so we went back to the hotel and spent the afternoon relaxing and having lunch by the pool and we went for another massage. I had a special event planned for the evening.
It had been an early start so we went back to the hotel and spent the afternoon relaxing and having lunch by the pool and we went for another massage. I had a special event planned for the evening.
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The Sacred Dancers of Angkor
We dressed nicely and were taken to see the Sacred Dancers of Angkor. We were specially invited to go early to attend their meditation and blessing that they do before every performance. This is not just any performance of Apsara dance, it is performed by young people from around the area of Banteay Srei, who are taught to appreciate the spiritual and cultural aspects of this beautiful dance. They are patronized by the Princess who revived the art form when it was nearly wiped out by the Khmer Rouge in its efforts to annihilate all art and culture and learning.
I felt very blessed and fortunate to have found this group and to have been personally invited to attend the meditation and chanting ceremony. Next time I take a group over to Cambodia I hope to work more closely with them, living in a home-stay, going to their cooking school and visiting the conservatoir.
It was such a sublime performance, ethereal, simply beautiful. The costumes were golden. The movements slow and precise, every gesture of the fingers and toes is controlled and has meaning. The effort must have been immense but they keep the sweetest expressions on their faces and the next moment show disapproval. Each dance had a story, we were given a program to explain what we were watching. I loved it so much.
At the end they gave us tea that tasted like nectar from heaven in a coconut bowl and tied a blessing bracelet around our wrists. We took some beautiful photos with them all too. They are definitely a very special group of young people.
Bunna and Ramon picked us up and I got them to drop us off at Pub Street as it was my duty as a tour guid to make sure they saw the Tourist hub of Siem Reap. It was pretty fun and vibrant. I was starving. The Hotel had closed it’s kitchen by the time we got back though it was only 9pm. There was a little restaurant across the road that kindly fixed us some food. I was absolutely ravenous.
I felt very blessed and fortunate to have found this group and to have been personally invited to attend the meditation and chanting ceremony. Next time I take a group over to Cambodia I hope to work more closely with them, living in a home-stay, going to their cooking school and visiting the conservatoir.
It was such a sublime performance, ethereal, simply beautiful. The costumes were golden. The movements slow and precise, every gesture of the fingers and toes is controlled and has meaning. The effort must have been immense but they keep the sweetest expressions on their faces and the next moment show disapproval. Each dance had a story, we were given a program to explain what we were watching. I loved it so much.
At the end they gave us tea that tasted like nectar from heaven in a coconut bowl and tied a blessing bracelet around our wrists. We took some beautiful photos with them all too. They are definitely a very special group of young people.
Bunna and Ramon picked us up and I got them to drop us off at Pub Street as it was my duty as a tour guid to make sure they saw the Tourist hub of Siem Reap. It was pretty fun and vibrant. I was starving. The Hotel had closed it’s kitchen by the time we got back though it was only 9pm. There was a little restaurant across the road that kindly fixed us some food. I was absolutely ravenous.
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Beang Melea and the Floating Village
Today we are travelling further afield, 154km round trip by minivan to the temple of Beang Melea and the floating village.
Beang Melea is a lost, forgotten and abandoned temple that has been reclaimed by the jungle.
We will see real Cambodian life on the lake, a monastery and mangrove forests. The locals will ask $5US to ferry you around in a small boat.
Beang Melea is a lost, forgotten and abandoned temple that has been reclaimed by the jungle.
We will see real Cambodian life on the lake, a monastery and mangrove forests. The locals will ask $5US to ferry you around in a small boat.
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OMG! The Luggage!
From Siem Reap, we caught a public van to Strung Treng. It took 5 hours. The hardest thing about the trip was not being able to pee for 3 hours.
Bunna came with us. The girls were so pleased he was coming. He made them feel safe. He said he was our security. I knew he was really excited about coming. He had told me it was the most beautiful part of Cambodia and he had never seen it. It took a little persuading to convince him that it was ok to come. We even had a chance for a catch-up one night, sitting in the swing chair on the deck overhanging the Mekong
OMG, when we arrived in town at Strung Treng, we unloaded all that luggage off the van and squashed it, and ourselves, into the tuktuk that came to collect us. The locals eyes bulged out of their heads. We joked that Bunna would have to ride on the roof. I think they tied one bag to the back of the tuktuk, I couldn't see though the tiny spy hole I had as I was totally immersed in luggage. The town seriously couldn't believe what they were seeing as they laughed and pointed at this ridiculous sight as we drove by. Nothing like an entrance. We waved happily.
And when we arrived at the birdbird resort we were met by Ty. He thought, "OMG!".
And then they showed us to our rooms. We had a wooden house each. I had tried to arrange one each so I could have a bit of time to myself but I ended up with their most expensive family room. It wasn't my own for long. When I went to check on everyone, I found one of the girls in tears because a spider had crawled out from her sheets. She has a phobia of spiders. So I took her in and she shared my fancy room. She had the bottom bunk - sprayed all the way around with bug spray, and I had the big double bed. The two rooms were separated by a curtain.
Another one of the rooms didn't have mesh on the window to keep the bugs out, but with the curtain closed and a mosquito net over her bed, mosquitoes weren't a problem. Also I had brought plenty of mosquito burners with me for when we wanted to be outside. She seemed to cope without getting bitten. The next room was next door and you could climb from one to the other over the railing of the balcony if you used a chair. The first balcony was larger and had a swing chair so we liked hanging out there. We tried doing yoga there in the afternoon, but we were too hot so we moved into the air-conditioning. We did yoga nidra and legs up the wall, in the dark, and unfortunately, missed the sunset. Luckily Bunna took a photo. We never saw a glorious sunset the whole trip. I have far more spectacular sunsets in my car park at Singleton. Actually the sunset when I came home was spectacular, the orange of the Australian sky is intense.
One night we watched an electrical storm and all the lights went out. It was so black except for the lightening.
Bunna came with us. The girls were so pleased he was coming. He made them feel safe. He said he was our security. I knew he was really excited about coming. He had told me it was the most beautiful part of Cambodia and he had never seen it. It took a little persuading to convince him that it was ok to come. We even had a chance for a catch-up one night, sitting in the swing chair on the deck overhanging the Mekong
OMG, when we arrived in town at Strung Treng, we unloaded all that luggage off the van and squashed it, and ourselves, into the tuktuk that came to collect us. The locals eyes bulged out of their heads. We joked that Bunna would have to ride on the roof. I think they tied one bag to the back of the tuktuk, I couldn't see though the tiny spy hole I had as I was totally immersed in luggage. The town seriously couldn't believe what they were seeing as they laughed and pointed at this ridiculous sight as we drove by. Nothing like an entrance. We waved happily.
And when we arrived at the birdbird resort we were met by Ty. He thought, "OMG!".
And then they showed us to our rooms. We had a wooden house each. I had tried to arrange one each so I could have a bit of time to myself but I ended up with their most expensive family room. It wasn't my own for long. When I went to check on everyone, I found one of the girls in tears because a spider had crawled out from her sheets. She has a phobia of spiders. So I took her in and she shared my fancy room. She had the bottom bunk - sprayed all the way around with bug spray, and I had the big double bed. The two rooms were separated by a curtain.
Another one of the rooms didn't have mesh on the window to keep the bugs out, but with the curtain closed and a mosquito net over her bed, mosquitoes weren't a problem. Also I had brought plenty of mosquito burners with me for when we wanted to be outside. She seemed to cope without getting bitten. The next room was next door and you could climb from one to the other over the railing of the balcony if you used a chair. The first balcony was larger and had a swing chair so we liked hanging out there. We tried doing yoga there in the afternoon, but we were too hot so we moved into the air-conditioning. We did yoga nidra and legs up the wall, in the dark, and unfortunately, missed the sunset. Luckily Bunna took a photo. We never saw a glorious sunset the whole trip. I have far more spectacular sunsets in my car park at Singleton. Actually the sunset when I came home was spectacular, the orange of the Australian sky is intense.
One night we watched an electrical storm and all the lights went out. It was so black except for the lightening.
The food they served us as a smorgasbord for dinner was delicious. In their tiny out door restaurant on a deck overhanging the Mekong. With candles and flowers to decorate the plates, food and table. They brought us lemongrass tea kept warm in a hollow coconut lined with satin.
The next morning we did yoga on the deck. It swayed very slightly, it was an odd sensation. It was a strange and different energy to be suspended in the air doing yoga, rather than the grounding I usually feel. Bunna tried the yoga for the first time too, he did extremely well, though it was hard. He worked up a sweat. Afterwards he said how great it made him feel. He joined us for yoga for the 3 mornings we were there.
The table was already set for our wonderful slow breakfast.
The next morning we did yoga on the deck. It swayed very slightly, it was an odd sensation. It was a strange and different energy to be suspended in the air doing yoga, rather than the grounding I usually feel. Bunna tried the yoga for the first time too, he did extremely well, though it was hard. He worked up a sweat. Afterwards he said how great it made him feel. He joined us for yoga for the 3 mornings we were there.
The table was already set for our wonderful slow breakfast.
Sopheak Mitt Waterfall
Our first adventure that Ty took us on was to Sophomitt waterfall - one of the widest in the world, and to see if we could see the rare irriwaddy dolphins.
He was a bit late as he had been drinking beer the night before. We eventually loaded into the tuk tuk that had picked us up the day before. We filled it just with people, I have no idea how we fitted the luggage in on top of us. Dana never complained but apparently her seat was super uncomfortable - she also never complained about her sore hip afterwards, she said that perhaps the seat had fixed it.
We went on a long long drive - maybe more than 2 hours. Most of the way was along a long dusty road.
They were constructing bridges along the road, the detour around the construction site meant driving down into a ditch and back up the other side. The construction sites were like little villages themselves, with tables and chairs for eating, hammocks for sleeping and clothes hanging up to dry.
He was a bit late as he had been drinking beer the night before. We eventually loaded into the tuk tuk that had picked us up the day before. We filled it just with people, I have no idea how we fitted the luggage in on top of us. Dana never complained but apparently her seat was super uncomfortable - she also never complained about her sore hip afterwards, she said that perhaps the seat had fixed it.
We went on a long long drive - maybe more than 2 hours. Most of the way was along a long dusty road.
They were constructing bridges along the road, the detour around the construction site meant driving down into a ditch and back up the other side. The construction sites were like little villages themselves, with tables and chairs for eating, hammocks for sleeping and clothes hanging up to dry.
We were pretty well choked by dust, Dana's grey hair turned a shade of tan, all of us and everything we held was covered in dust. We had never been so dusty - dirtier perhaps, but dustier? No.
We arrived at a Chinese Casino and monstrosity hotel if you can belive it, in the middle of nowhere over looking the falls. We washed up in their bathroom, had a look at the falls from the viewing area and ordered a very ordinary lunch at the restaurant. The restaurant didn't even take advantage of te views with the windows set too high to see out of.
As we ate, it started to rain. At least the drive back wouldn't be dusty. If it had rained more, it would have been incredibly muddy and I doubt that we would have made it back. We would have got bogged and have had to push. At one of the bridge works we all got out and cheered the tuktuk on as it laboured its way out of the mus up the hill. I had fun stepping out into the mud in bare feet. It felt good and made everyone happy.
I went out onto the viewing platform and Ty pointed to two fishermen in a small boat who were making their way out between the rocks to the middle of the waterfall. They climbed out one jumped into the raging water. He swam to the next rock and clambered out. He had a fishong pole to try and spear fish. His friend stayed on the othe side, the first guy had a rope tied around himself so he could pull his way back across the current when he had caught some fish. The idea was that the fish cant swim up stream, and they stay in the pools betwern the rocks. It was an incredibly dangerous way to catch fish.
After lunch we went down to the rocks by the edge of the falls to have a close up experience of the ferocious energy of this water.
We loaded back into the tuktuk and went to our next destination, a shopping village in the jungle with a pier for a boat.
We arrived at a Chinese Casino and monstrosity hotel if you can belive it, in the middle of nowhere over looking the falls. We washed up in their bathroom, had a look at the falls from the viewing area and ordered a very ordinary lunch at the restaurant. The restaurant didn't even take advantage of te views with the windows set too high to see out of.
As we ate, it started to rain. At least the drive back wouldn't be dusty. If it had rained more, it would have been incredibly muddy and I doubt that we would have made it back. We would have got bogged and have had to push. At one of the bridge works we all got out and cheered the tuktuk on as it laboured its way out of the mus up the hill. I had fun stepping out into the mud in bare feet. It felt good and made everyone happy.
I went out onto the viewing platform and Ty pointed to two fishermen in a small boat who were making their way out between the rocks to the middle of the waterfall. They climbed out one jumped into the raging water. He swam to the next rock and clambered out. He had a fishong pole to try and spear fish. His friend stayed on the othe side, the first guy had a rope tied around himself so he could pull his way back across the current when he had caught some fish. The idea was that the fish cant swim up stream, and they stay in the pools betwern the rocks. It was an incredibly dangerous way to catch fish.
After lunch we went down to the rocks by the edge of the falls to have a close up experience of the ferocious energy of this water.
We loaded back into the tuktuk and went to our next destination, a shopping village in the jungle with a pier for a boat.
Ty went and hired the boat while we took photos of the friendliest dog who posed for our photos, even smiling.
We climbed down the rough stairs and across the even rougher boarding platform and into the boat. It was much quieter than the motor boat that had taken us to the floating village.
We put-putted down the river, amazed at the thick jungle, coconuts and banana trees that grew along the banks of the river. So much food to feed the monkeys. We passed a big rock in the middle of the river that marks the boarder between Laos and Cambodia. The boats on the far side of the river were boats from Lao and boats on our side of the river were from Cambodia.
After a while we pulled in at a sandy island and got out of the boat. It was actually a Lao island. I told Bunna that now he can say he has been to Lao.
We climbed up the bank, Ellen and Donna stayed below with Ty. We watched and waited and we saw the dolphins. It was one of the most serene moments of my life.
The dolphins are very rare. We saw only 2. There used to be 18. Lao is building a dam, we could see it from the village, and when they explode the rocks the noise kills the dolphins or drives them away.
These dolphins aren't like normal dolphins, they are fresh water and have a rounded nose and are pinkish in colour.
We watched them for a while. They would curve up out of the water together then they would disappear under the water and we would have to wait for them to rise up again. They were so peaceful.
We got back into the boat and went into the middle of their water home and waited. We saw them up close to the boat. They made a funny sort of snorting, snuffling noise as they surfaced. When we didn't see them anymore the boat took us gently back down the stream.
We had Lao beer at the village. Loa beer is very nice - Ty had at least 4 and we made sure he didn't fall asleep and fall out of the tuk tuk on the way back.
I also bought a square pillow for massage which came in very handy on the way back as I sat in comfort in the uncomfortable seat.
The rain had turned the dusty road to mud and we had our doubts whether the our little tuktuk could make it, but it did.
We climbed down the rough stairs and across the even rougher boarding platform and into the boat. It was much quieter than the motor boat that had taken us to the floating village.
We put-putted down the river, amazed at the thick jungle, coconuts and banana trees that grew along the banks of the river. So much food to feed the monkeys. We passed a big rock in the middle of the river that marks the boarder between Laos and Cambodia. The boats on the far side of the river were boats from Lao and boats on our side of the river were from Cambodia.
After a while we pulled in at a sandy island and got out of the boat. It was actually a Lao island. I told Bunna that now he can say he has been to Lao.
We climbed up the bank, Ellen and Donna stayed below with Ty. We watched and waited and we saw the dolphins. It was one of the most serene moments of my life.
The dolphins are very rare. We saw only 2. There used to be 18. Lao is building a dam, we could see it from the village, and when they explode the rocks the noise kills the dolphins or drives them away.
These dolphins aren't like normal dolphins, they are fresh water and have a rounded nose and are pinkish in colour.
We watched them for a while. They would curve up out of the water together then they would disappear under the water and we would have to wait for them to rise up again. They were so peaceful.
We got back into the boat and went into the middle of their water home and waited. We saw them up close to the boat. They made a funny sort of snorting, snuffling noise as they surfaced. When we didn't see them anymore the boat took us gently back down the stream.
We had Lao beer at the village. Loa beer is very nice - Ty had at least 4 and we made sure he didn't fall asleep and fall out of the tuk tuk on the way back.
I also bought a square pillow for massage which came in very handy on the way back as I sat in comfort in the uncomfortable seat.
The rain had turned the dusty road to mud and we had our doubts whether the our little tuktuk could make it, but it did.
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Jungle Party
This was our wildest, most unexpected day. We went down to the dock at the bird resort and got in a boat. I got in the back in case the motor was noisy. I had a pillow to lean against and I blocked my ears. It wasn't so noisy when were going slower.
We watched with amazement as they loaded tables, chairs etc, etc into the boat and unload it on an island up the river. Also woven mats, food esky, Angkor beer esky, paddles, kayaks...
And it turned out they had to go back for the life jackets.
The boat driver took us for a longer tour through the sunken forest, where the trees grew up out of the water supported by their huge roots.
We got out on a sandy bank. The sand had golden minerals. Bunna waded through the water and climbed up into a tree and we made him a pretend beard from roots.
The forest in the water was amazing with its branches poking up and roots growing up in mounds above the water line and more roots growing down from the branches into the water. It was mysterious like a jungle movie set.
We watched with amazement as they loaded tables, chairs etc, etc into the boat and unload it on an island up the river. Also woven mats, food esky, Angkor beer esky, paddles, kayaks...
And it turned out they had to go back for the life jackets.
The boat driver took us for a longer tour through the sunken forest, where the trees grew up out of the water supported by their huge roots.
We got out on a sandy bank. The sand had golden minerals. Bunna waded through the water and climbed up into a tree and we made him a pretend beard from roots.
The forest in the water was amazing with its branches poking up and roots growing up in mounds above the water line and more roots growing down from the branches into the water. It was mysterious like a jungle movie set.
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Then the boat took us to an island with shade where Ty had set lunch for us and we all had a party together with beer and fried chook and rice wrapped in banana leaves. The chook still had it's head and it's legs on. The claws were a handy back scratcher.We had our swimmers on and jumped into the river and were swept away on the strong current. It was a hard slog to fight back across the current to the shore. I used branches to help pull me across the eddies but I had to be careful of the branches as they had thorns.
Everyne swam, Tracy said they would never believe it. She became so brave this trip, overcoming so many fears.
That was the funnest party. We even had Eminem's music and dancing and singing. Dana wanted a picture of her drinking beer in the Mekong river so I directed a short video with the other girls as back up dancers, sitting on the bank with thier feet in the water swaying from side to side. All the guys got in the video too. Dana drank her beer and started tapping the water. To finish Ty cast his fishing net into the river. I think it will be a hit on you tube. (Except I'm banned from sharing it).
Everyne swam, Tracy said they would never believe it. She became so brave this trip, overcoming so many fears.
That was the funnest party. We even had Eminem's music and dancing and singing. Dana wanted a picture of her drinking beer in the Mekong river so I directed a short video with the other girls as back up dancers, sitting on the bank with thier feet in the water swaying from side to side. All the guys got in the video too. Dana drank her beer and started tapping the water. To finish Ty cast his fishing net into the river. I think it will be a hit on you tube. (Except I'm banned from sharing it).
After lunch, it was too hot to do anything so we did more swimming and finished the beer. Ty found a kingfisher nest dug into the bank of thecrivet with 3 baby kingfishers in it. And he spotted the mother in a tree. We saw her through a telescope. It took a lot of looking but eventually I spotted her with my eyes in the branches.
When it had cooled down we went to a spot to start kyaking back to the resort. I was in a kayak with Dana. I said "I love rowing. When we get back lets join a rowing club."
After a while I said, " I don't want to be in a rowing club anymore." As we zigzagged our way down the Mekong. And poor Bunna was in one on his own up the back. He was scared a crocodile would come and eat him. He hitched a ride with the bost at one stage. Next time I will say "off you go on your kayaking adventure, I will stay in the boat."
Donna and Ellen had the hang of it, they did an awesome job. And Tracy and Ty, the professionals took off.
We all made it back. I put on face book that we went on a 15km kayak trip but they told me it was only 5 - it sure felt like 15km to me!
When it had cooled down we went to a spot to start kyaking back to the resort. I was in a kayak with Dana. I said "I love rowing. When we get back lets join a rowing club."
After a while I said, " I don't want to be in a rowing club anymore." As we zigzagged our way down the Mekong. And poor Bunna was in one on his own up the back. He was scared a crocodile would come and eat him. He hitched a ride with the bost at one stage. Next time I will say "off you go on your kayaking adventure, I will stay in the boat."
Donna and Ellen had the hang of it, they did an awesome job. And Tracy and Ty, the professionals took off.
We all made it back. I put on face book that we went on a 15km kayak trip but they told me it was only 5 - it sure felt like 15km to me!
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Good Bye Bird Resort
Next day was sad. We had to leave. I loved my new friends here. Especially Ty and the young girl who served in the restaurant. We had a big, big hug, she didn't want to let me go. But I'll go back to see them again.
We went into town in the tuktuk to have a look around the market...OMG! They were selling live and dead forest animals. There were big lizards in bags and live turtles. Appalling! And dead flying squirrels. And fish and flies everywhere. The smell was disgusting.
Ty brought our luggage on a trailer attached to his motor bike & met us st the bus stop. I didn't get enough money out to pay him so I hopped on the back of the bike, with his dog and we scooted off to get a bit more money. Lucky I still had my card with money on it at this stage or the tour would have gone off the rails as I had to pay with cash, not credit card.
Ty was sad for us to go - he couldn't even say good bye, he just took off. But we will all stay in touch on facebook.
We had a luxurious van all to ourselves back to Strung Treng with a very good driver. We had be dreading the 5 hours back, but it was comfortable and enjoyable.
We went into town in the tuktuk to have a look around the market...OMG! They were selling live and dead forest animals. There were big lizards in bags and live turtles. Appalling! And dead flying squirrels. And fish and flies everywhere. The smell was disgusting.
Ty brought our luggage on a trailer attached to his motor bike & met us st the bus stop. I didn't get enough money out to pay him so I hopped on the back of the bike, with his dog and we scooted off to get a bit more money. Lucky I still had my card with money on it at this stage or the tour would have gone off the rails as I had to pay with cash, not credit card.
Ty was sad for us to go - he couldn't even say good bye, he just took off. But we will all stay in touch on facebook.
We had a luxurious van all to ourselves back to Strung Treng with a very good driver. We had be dreading the 5 hours back, but it was comfortable and enjoyable.
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Cooking Skills
On our extra day in Siem Reap, the girls wanted to go to cooking school. It was a good experience, especially as I don't cook.
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We were taken on a walk through the food market and they explained things. It was much better than walking through on our own and not understanding or appreciating anything. It was really interesting. At least they don't sell forest animals to eat but they sell stinky fish, also dried fish - after seeing how they dry fish and shrimp at the floating market, I will never touch it again in Siem Reap.
Back at the cooking school the lady chef demonstrated how to make each course then we made it ourselves. We made fresh spring rolls wrapped in rice paper, they were yummy. Our main couse was fish amock, I focused and did well. Dessert was cooked bananas. Blerg. I loath bananas, but that's another story...I ate some. They gave us a box of spices and the recipes to cook at home.
I have a cooking certificate to add to my certificate wall! Everyone will be so impressed with my new cooking skills!
We had to wear a cooking hat and apron. Later, when we were leaving the hotel, I noticed that one of my earings was missing. It was a jade dragon earing I had bought in Siem Reap as my birthday present the year before. I knew it must have become tangled in the hat and apron at the cooking school when I took them off.
Back at the cooking school the lady chef demonstrated how to make each course then we made it ourselves. We made fresh spring rolls wrapped in rice paper, they were yummy. Our main couse was fish amock, I focused and did well. Dessert was cooked bananas. Blerg. I loath bananas, but that's another story...I ate some. They gave us a box of spices and the recipes to cook at home.
I have a cooking certificate to add to my certificate wall! Everyone will be so impressed with my new cooking skills!
We had to wear a cooking hat and apron. Later, when we were leaving the hotel, I noticed that one of my earings was missing. It was a jade dragon earing I had bought in Siem Reap as my birthday present the year before. I knew it must have become tangled in the hat and apron at the cooking school when I took them off.
The hotel rang the school. They found it and we called in to collect it on the way to the airport.
Unfortunately, I discovered that my earing was missing at the same moment I plugged my phone into the charger at the bar as it was only on 52%. The distraction caused me to forget about my phone and it was left behind. The owner of the hotel rushed to the airport to try and give it to me but was not able to pass it through security. I didn't realize I didn't have it till I was sitting on the plane.
Slight catastrophy. The worst being that I hadn't transferred the money for the next leg of the tour onto my travel money card so we had no cash. I could pay for hotels with credit card but lots of places in these hidden communities only deal in cash. One of the ladies saved us and lent me the cash.
Anyway, besides the money problem, I was glad I didn't have my phone. I was free like I hadn't been in years. I could be just me. I didn't have to spend hours on facebook messaging or posting photos. And I could borrow Someone else's phone occasionally. Taking and posting photos for the group was taking up an enormous amount of time and energy. When they were all asleep, I was still working, on top of all the organizing and participation in the activities. I wouldn't have been able to keep it up.
No phone - no photos - no posting. Simple. And in the evenings while they were all busy talking to friends and family back home, I could just relax by the pool.
And I did have the big camera I had been lent. It was time to use that. I wonder how the photos will turn out.
Unfortunately, I discovered that my earing was missing at the same moment I plugged my phone into the charger at the bar as it was only on 52%. The distraction caused me to forget about my phone and it was left behind. The owner of the hotel rushed to the airport to try and give it to me but was not able to pass it through security. I didn't realize I didn't have it till I was sitting on the plane.
Slight catastrophy. The worst being that I hadn't transferred the money for the next leg of the tour onto my travel money card so we had no cash. I could pay for hotels with credit card but lots of places in these hidden communities only deal in cash. One of the ladies saved us and lent me the cash.
Anyway, besides the money problem, I was glad I didn't have my phone. I was free like I hadn't been in years. I could be just me. I didn't have to spend hours on facebook messaging or posting photos. And I could borrow Someone else's phone occasionally. Taking and posting photos for the group was taking up an enormous amount of time and energy. When they were all asleep, I was still working, on top of all the organizing and participation in the activities. I wouldn't have been able to keep it up.
No phone - no photos - no posting. Simple. And in the evenings while they were all busy talking to friends and family back home, I could just relax by the pool.
And I did have the big camera I had been lent. It was time to use that. I wonder how the photos will turn out.
The Monks of Luang Prabang
The next morning I woke up way too early, as usual, and went down to meditate, but I had a headache and couldn't focus. I went next door and noticed the monks scurrying about and wondered if they were going on their morning ritual through the streets that I had read about. I went out the gate and waited on the side of the road. They crossed the road in a single file, all in their orange robes, then crossed back over to my side of the road. I wandered down to the corner, watching. There were lines of monks coming from all directions, there must be so many different monasteries in this town, with about 12 to 15 monks, mostly young in each monastery.
I decided to follow the monks from my monastery at a respectful distance. They filed past the people who all waited outside their houses or shop. Each monk received a serving of sticky rice from each person,or maybe an egg or a packet of something. I noticed that all the people were wearing a scarf across their shoulder, it must be tradition.
The monks didn't seem to mind me following them, when we crossed a road, the last monk would turn to check that i had crossed safely. As we neared the outskirts of the old town, we had to cross a bigger road and I didn't want to get squashed so I caught up and crossed with the group. As we turned the corner, the sun came up, shining rays over the mountain. It was a special moment.
I decided to follow the monks from my monastery at a respectful distance. They filed past the people who all waited outside their houses or shop. Each monk received a serving of sticky rice from each person,or maybe an egg or a packet of something. I noticed that all the people were wearing a scarf across their shoulder, it must be tradition.
The monks didn't seem to mind me following them, when we crossed a road, the last monk would turn to check that i had crossed safely. As we neared the outskirts of the old town, we had to cross a bigger road and I didn't want to get squashed so I caught up and crossed with the group. As we turned the corner, the sun came up, shining rays over the mountain. It was a special moment.
We headed back to the monastery. Some of them were quite suprised when I followed them in and smiled as I walked through into my villa next door.
The girls were waiting to do yoga by the pool in the garden. I told the girls about the monks and they wanted to come the next day. We asked what we could do and before going to bed, we went out and bought lots of snacks, a whole bag full of biscuits and cakes and things. I added the packets of lollies and tea i had brought over. Someone put in some nuts.
The next morning, we went down at 5:30am and found a spot by the road to wait for the monks and give them our offerings. It was hard to all keep up with so many monks! When a young monk came along I gave him the lollies. But I still had some of the packets of tea. When the bag was almost empty (it didn't take long) we went off for a walk to see the procession through town and try to take some good photos.
The girls were waiting to do yoga by the pool in the garden. I told the girls about the monks and they wanted to come the next day. We asked what we could do and before going to bed, we went out and bought lots of snacks, a whole bag full of biscuits and cakes and things. I added the packets of lollies and tea i had brought over. Someone put in some nuts.
The next morning, we went down at 5:30am and found a spot by the road to wait for the monks and give them our offerings. It was hard to all keep up with so many monks! When a young monk came along I gave him the lollies. But I still had some of the packets of tea. When the bag was almost empty (it didn't take long) we went off for a walk to see the procession through town and try to take some good photos.
We also climbed up Mt Phousie, a high hill in the middle of town with a temple at the top. I brought a little finch for me and Dana in a little cage and set it free and made a wish. I loved setting that little bird free. It flew off into the trees, so happy.
There were golden Buddha statues on the way down and golden snake statues on the stair railings. Also monks coming down too.
We went back to our Villa for Lunch and checked out. We were picked up and taken to get on the public van for the next, most perilous, exciting, and scenic ride of our lives. The road from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng is not for the faint-hearted, or for those prone to travel sickness.
There were golden Buddha statues on the way down and golden snake statues on the stair railings. Also monks coming down too.
We went back to our Villa for Lunch and checked out. We were picked up and taken to get on the public van for the next, most perilous, exciting, and scenic ride of our lives. The road from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng is not for the faint-hearted, or for those prone to travel sickness.
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Water fall in Paradise
But I haven't told you about the rest of our beautiful adventures in Luang Prabang - so we can't leave yet.
After yoga in the garden by the pool and breakfast we were picked up by the van that had collected us from the airport to go to Kuang Si Waterfall. I had seen photos of this waterfall on Facebook, but photos aren't enough, I wanted to experience the real place and feel the atmosphere.
On our drive to the waterfall we stopped to let a herd of buffaloes cross the road. They burst from the jungle beside us. The leader was hesitant, he shook his head from side to side before he decided to lead the herd across. They were eventually followed by their keepers carrying long bamboo poles and disappeared back into the jungle. The girls were so excited, they had been asking and asking to see a herd of buffalo.
The other place we stopped at was an elephant reserve. I've always wanted to pat an elephant, now my wish has been granted. I'd ridden one at the zoo when I was 2 and I'd never forgotten. I would never ride one now, it is just cruel to use elephants for entertainment and the heavy contraptions they put on them to carry people deform their backs. The baby elephant was the cutest but we made sure we fed all of them lots of banana leaves. They have to keep a chain around their foot otherwise the elephants go into the towns and trample on things. The villagers are scared of them - with good reason.
After yoga in the garden by the pool and breakfast we were picked up by the van that had collected us from the airport to go to Kuang Si Waterfall. I had seen photos of this waterfall on Facebook, but photos aren't enough, I wanted to experience the real place and feel the atmosphere.
On our drive to the waterfall we stopped to let a herd of buffaloes cross the road. They burst from the jungle beside us. The leader was hesitant, he shook his head from side to side before he decided to lead the herd across. They were eventually followed by their keepers carrying long bamboo poles and disappeared back into the jungle. The girls were so excited, they had been asking and asking to see a herd of buffalo.
The other place we stopped at was an elephant reserve. I've always wanted to pat an elephant, now my wish has been granted. I'd ridden one at the zoo when I was 2 and I'd never forgotten. I would never ride one now, it is just cruel to use elephants for entertainment and the heavy contraptions they put on them to carry people deform their backs. The baby elephant was the cutest but we made sure we fed all of them lots of banana leaves. They have to keep a chain around their foot otherwise the elephants go into the towns and trample on things. The villagers are scared of them - with good reason.
We walked up through jungle flowers and fluttering butterflies. The waterfall was breath-taking. It was like paradise. I think if they have a waterfall in heaven, it could not be more beautiful than this. It was as beautiful as its pictures. There was a possibility that the water might be stirred up and muddy, I'd seen pictures of it like that too, but it was pristine, with clear aqua water, The water was truly aqua colour, like you imagine is the colour of water should be. It was so refreshing to swim in. It flows down from a great height into lime stone pools of different gradients below.
There is a bridge across that you can walk across and take photos, I had so much fun photo bombing this trip. There was a group of Asian tourists (mostly the tourists are Asian as we were in Asia) lined up on the bridge to have their photo taken. I walked in front and when I got to the end of their line, I stopped and turned around and smiled for their photo. The photographer laughed. Mind you sometimes in other places, people wanted mine, or group photos of us or even a video, I'm used to it. The girls wanted to know why, I told them it's because we are special princesses.
My adventurous girls were so used to challenges by now that they wanted to climb the mountain to the pool at the very top, so up we went. It wasn't as tough as the climb to Kebal Spean as it had stairs but it was just as steep. The view from the top of the mountain was spectacular, we could see to far off mountains overgrown in verdant, wild jungle. The pool at the top was not aqua coloured like the pools below but it was probably more fun because there were only a few other people up there with us. I hid behind a giant tree to get changed into my swimmers. There was a swing that everyone had a go on too.
There is a bridge across that you can walk across and take photos, I had so much fun photo bombing this trip. There was a group of Asian tourists (mostly the tourists are Asian as we were in Asia) lined up on the bridge to have their photo taken. I walked in front and when I got to the end of their line, I stopped and turned around and smiled for their photo. The photographer laughed. Mind you sometimes in other places, people wanted mine, or group photos of us or even a video, I'm used to it. The girls wanted to know why, I told them it's because we are special princesses.
My adventurous girls were so used to challenges by now that they wanted to climb the mountain to the pool at the very top, so up we went. It wasn't as tough as the climb to Kebal Spean as it had stairs but it was just as steep. The view from the top of the mountain was spectacular, we could see to far off mountains overgrown in verdant, wild jungle. The pool at the top was not aqua coloured like the pools below but it was probably more fun because there were only a few other people up there with us. I hid behind a giant tree to get changed into my swimmers. There was a swing that everyone had a go on too.
Some enterprising Lao people have a hut up there with cool music for us to dance to. And they had a barge they would take you for a ride up the river on. It didn't look very water-tight to me, but I saw a couple being ferried away into the jungle - maybe never to be seen again...
The climb down was just as steep, we were very admiring of the tall young guy who ran down as we went down backward and carefully. Wow what an amazing sight the cascading water is when you come out at the bottom of the path. We had a lovely swim. And ate a Magnum Ice-cream.
We weren't back too late. Two of the girls went off to find a good massage place and the other two went with me to find somewhere nice for dinner. We found a place on the river, the fourth diner at our table was a tree, it was next to me. All the food everywhere we went tasted great. I have a favorite, stir-fried morning glory in oyster sauce that I like to eat when I'm over in Asia because I can't get it here. If you are careful you don't have to have spicy food, and there is chilli on the table you can add yourself if you want to.
The climb down was just as steep, we were very admiring of the tall young guy who ran down as we went down backward and carefully. Wow what an amazing sight the cascading water is when you come out at the bottom of the path. We had a lovely swim. And ate a Magnum Ice-cream.
We weren't back too late. Two of the girls went off to find a good massage place and the other two went with me to find somewhere nice for dinner. We found a place on the river, the fourth diner at our table was a tree, it was next to me. All the food everywhere we went tasted great. I have a favorite, stir-fried morning glory in oyster sauce that I like to eat when I'm over in Asia because I can't get it here. If you are careful you don't have to have spicy food, and there is chilli on the table you can add yourself if you want to.
The Thongs
I booked a private boat for us to go to Pak Ou Caves. For more than a thousand years, pilgrims have been coming by boat to these sacred caves, and leaving a statue of the Buddha. The entrance is through a hole in the side of a cliff above the water.
A tuktuk took us down to the warf. We were escorted down the steep stairs onto a boat. We thought it was a bit of a fancy boat for 5 people, with benches to recline on with cushions and a restaurant. But we were helped to step over the side of the boat, onto another boat, a little down market, but still a bit fancy for 5 people to go up the river we whispered to each other.
But we weren’t on the right boat yet, we had to step over the side again onto a smaller boat still. Compared to the first boat, we felt like we were in the pauper’s boat. Before we embarked on our journey I asked if I could use the toilets on the middle boat and followed the tradition of slipping off my thongs, I left them neatly on the deck.
When we got to Whisky Village and I stepped out of the boat, I looked down at my feet and realized I had no shoes. Everyone laughed. This was my second pair of thongs. I’d washed one pair in the Mekong and left them on the veranda railing to dry. I’d sent Ty a message that he could have them. I bought another pair in Siem Reap, they were woven straw and so comfortable, my foot felt like it was being massaged the time I wore them.
The boat driver would have lent me his I think but I left the girls sampling whisky with snake heads, spiders, and other delicacies and set off through the tiny remote river village in search of thongs. I was sure there would be a shop that would sell thongs or flip flops but I was wrong, all they sold was scarves.
They kept asking if I wanted to buy a scarf but I kept pointing at my bare feet and saying I didn’t want to buy a scarf, I wanted to buy shoes, they looked at my feet in a bemused way and waved me on further down the street. It was certainly a different spectacle to the usual tourists they get. I had the big camera strung across my shoulder, traditional clothes and bare feet on the burning hot dusty path stomping through a monastery. I felt like an explorer gone wrong.
I couldn’t find any thongs. A lady offered to give me a pair of her flip flops from the ones outside her door but I couldn’t take her shoes, it is probably her only pair. She got her young daughter to take me to the general store a little further on but they didn’t have any either (all this was done in sign language). I had to concede that they didn’t sell any form of foot wear in Whisky Village.
I saw the public toilets, it cost 2000 kip but it seemed a convenient time to go and I had 2000 kip note. There were 3 different sized thongs to use to wear into the toilet and it gave me an idea. The girl who collected the money had disappeared when I came out but I looked around till I found her and tried to get her to understand that I wanted to buy the middle size pair of thongs. She fetched a young guy who spoke a bit of English but she still didn’t quite get it, it is a pretty alien concept that someone would want to buy the toilet thongs. I was giving up and started to turn away when the young guy called me back and said she would sell them to me if I wanted them. I gave her more than she asked for and set off back through town with my new orange toilet thongs. A quick swish in the Mekong to freshen them up and they were as good as gold.
Everybody laughed, the ladies selling scarves all wanted to know if I had gotten some shoes I lifted up my foot and pointed, then they wanted to know if I wanted to buy a scarf. The whisky seller laughed and tried to sell me some whisky with a scorpion in it, the boat man laughed, Such a ridiculous thing made everyone so happy.
The pair I had left behind was still waiting for me on the boat when we got back from our tour of the caves and lunch and long boat trip. All the people on the boat all laughed too when they saw my new thongs.
I had 3 pairs of thongs now to colour co-ordinate with my outfits; sky blue, I brought with me; maroon, from the ‘I love Cambodia’ shop in Siem Reap and my unique orange pair from Whisky Village – after all no one else in the world will be able to say they bought a pair of thongs at whisky Village.
A tuktuk took us down to the warf. We were escorted down the steep stairs onto a boat. We thought it was a bit of a fancy boat for 5 people, with benches to recline on with cushions and a restaurant. But we were helped to step over the side of the boat, onto another boat, a little down market, but still a bit fancy for 5 people to go up the river we whispered to each other.
But we weren’t on the right boat yet, we had to step over the side again onto a smaller boat still. Compared to the first boat, we felt like we were in the pauper’s boat. Before we embarked on our journey I asked if I could use the toilets on the middle boat and followed the tradition of slipping off my thongs, I left them neatly on the deck.
When we got to Whisky Village and I stepped out of the boat, I looked down at my feet and realized I had no shoes. Everyone laughed. This was my second pair of thongs. I’d washed one pair in the Mekong and left them on the veranda railing to dry. I’d sent Ty a message that he could have them. I bought another pair in Siem Reap, they were woven straw and so comfortable, my foot felt like it was being massaged the time I wore them.
The boat driver would have lent me his I think but I left the girls sampling whisky with snake heads, spiders, and other delicacies and set off through the tiny remote river village in search of thongs. I was sure there would be a shop that would sell thongs or flip flops but I was wrong, all they sold was scarves.
They kept asking if I wanted to buy a scarf but I kept pointing at my bare feet and saying I didn’t want to buy a scarf, I wanted to buy shoes, they looked at my feet in a bemused way and waved me on further down the street. It was certainly a different spectacle to the usual tourists they get. I had the big camera strung across my shoulder, traditional clothes and bare feet on the burning hot dusty path stomping through a monastery. I felt like an explorer gone wrong.
I couldn’t find any thongs. A lady offered to give me a pair of her flip flops from the ones outside her door but I couldn’t take her shoes, it is probably her only pair. She got her young daughter to take me to the general store a little further on but they didn’t have any either (all this was done in sign language). I had to concede that they didn’t sell any form of foot wear in Whisky Village.
I saw the public toilets, it cost 2000 kip but it seemed a convenient time to go and I had 2000 kip note. There were 3 different sized thongs to use to wear into the toilet and it gave me an idea. The girl who collected the money had disappeared when I came out but I looked around till I found her and tried to get her to understand that I wanted to buy the middle size pair of thongs. She fetched a young guy who spoke a bit of English but she still didn’t quite get it, it is a pretty alien concept that someone would want to buy the toilet thongs. I was giving up and started to turn away when the young guy called me back and said she would sell them to me if I wanted them. I gave her more than she asked for and set off back through town with my new orange toilet thongs. A quick swish in the Mekong to freshen them up and they were as good as gold.
Everybody laughed, the ladies selling scarves all wanted to know if I had gotten some shoes I lifted up my foot and pointed, then they wanted to know if I wanted to buy a scarf. The whisky seller laughed and tried to sell me some whisky with a scorpion in it, the boat man laughed, Such a ridiculous thing made everyone so happy.
The pair I had left behind was still waiting for me on the boat when we got back from our tour of the caves and lunch and long boat trip. All the people on the boat all laughed too when they saw my new thongs.
I had 3 pairs of thongs now to colour co-ordinate with my outfits; sky blue, I brought with me; maroon, from the ‘I love Cambodia’ shop in Siem Reap and my unique orange pair from Whisky Village – after all no one else in the world will be able to say they bought a pair of thongs at whisky Village.
Pak Ou Caves
Our boat took us on a two hour languid journey up the river. We passed a big new bridge under construction by the Chinese. It will be finished in a couple of years.
It was a lovely boat ride. There were mountains and jungle on both sides. The river was wide and deep with a strong current. I had a bought a simple little book at the supermarket the night before called “What’s at the Market” and I read it out to the girls. About the strange (to us) customs and food that they eat in Lao. The boat driver loved that I was telling them stories to learn about his country. When I was tired of reading to them, I sat up the back and had a nap.
It was a lovely boat ride. There were mountains and jungle on both sides. The river was wide and deep with a strong current. I had a bought a simple little book at the supermarket the night before called “What’s at the Market” and I read it out to the girls. About the strange (to us) customs and food that they eat in Lao. The boat driver loved that I was telling them stories to learn about his country. When I was tired of reading to them, I sat up the back and had a nap.
There weren’t many people at the caves when we arrived. We climbed out and along the floating walkway and paid to go up into the cave. There was a sleeping cat. It seemed quite strange that a sacred destination has become a tourist stop for people who have no idea of it’s significance. A Wendy Woo tour from Australia arrived while we were there. I heard the guide say that he would tell them where to stand to take the best photos.
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There is another cave higher up – 300 stairs higher up, a good climb. To see inside the cave you need a flashlight, there is a lady at the gate who can hire one to you. I had an offering of incense. The cave is full of Buddha statues; some are so old they are disintegrating. The others girls arrived and spotted me in the dark doing Secret Sarah Spiritual practices.
When I came back down the 300 stairs I went back into the first cave. No one was there, not even the old woman selling the incense and banana leaf comes. Only the sleeping cat. I only had a short time. I sat to meditate and did three Ohm’s. The cat woke up and took off! It felt like my mind lifted up into the roof of the cave to join with the wisdom mind of the pilgrims who had blessed the cave.
I had to dash back down and clamber across the floating decking and onto the boat. The girls had been talking to the Wendy Woo Tour, they were amazed at the things we had been doing – kayaking and swimming in the Mekong, trekking and climbing waterfalls, patting elephants. And their hotels were just ordinary.
When I came back down the 300 stairs I went back into the first cave. No one was there, not even the old woman selling the incense and banana leaf comes. Only the sleeping cat. I only had a short time. I sat to meditate and did three Ohm’s. The cat woke up and took off! It felt like my mind lifted up into the roof of the cave to join with the wisdom mind of the pilgrims who had blessed the cave.
I had to dash back down and clamber across the floating decking and onto the boat. The girls had been talking to the Wendy Woo Tour, they were amazed at the things we had been doing – kayaking and swimming in the Mekong, trekking and climbing waterfalls, patting elephants. And their hotels were just ordinary.
From the caves the boat driver took us to a special place on the river where the water was clearer with sheer cliffs and caves hollowed out underneath. There was a young fisherman listening to music on his phone in his fishing boat in one of the little caves. We got out on a tiny beach where a path into the jungle had a sign pointing in the direction of “school’. Not everyone was at school. Small boys were jumping off their boat and splashing and swimming in the river.
For lunch he took us to a restaurant high above the water, we could see far along the river. The food was nice and we had it all to ourselves. Wendy Woo was crowded into the small restaurant down on the river without the views. Lao beer is really nice and refreshing, and not very strong.
I sat up with my friend, the boat driver on the way back and he told me lots of things that I passed down to the girls, like how the river changes in the seasons and sand islands become sunken islands and the the road to Vientiane that the Chinese are building will be so fast that cars will be able to drive at 240km an hr, but I think that might be a tall story.
For lunch he took us to a restaurant high above the water, we could see far along the river. The food was nice and we had it all to ourselves. Wendy Woo was crowded into the small restaurant down on the river without the views. Lao beer is really nice and refreshing, and not very strong.
I sat up with my friend, the boat driver on the way back and he told me lots of things that I passed down to the girls, like how the river changes in the seasons and sand islands become sunken islands and the the road to Vientiane that the Chinese are building will be so fast that cars will be able to drive at 240km an hr, but I think that might be a tall story.
Vang Vieng
In the middle of the night I was woken by thunder rolling and sheets of lightening. I had to bring my clothes in from the veranda where I hoped they would dry. They had been to the ‘laundry’ but the laundress had no drier and possibly no washing machine as our clothes are all crumpled and not much cleaner than they were before we took them to her. We’d seen them hanging out on the street, it wasn’t very good drying weather.
We stayed for three nights in a remote tourist village called Vang Vieng in Laos. It is so secret I haven’t even seen it’s picturesque landscape on facebook. The view from our hotel, the Silver Naga, was breathtaking. It is almost impossible to reach Vang Vieng from Luang Prabang, it is a journey not to taken on by the faint-hearted or those prone to car sickness.
We spent six hours in a mini-van navigating the most scenic route in South East Asia along an insanely winding road, up and down and between steep mountains. The road was so high up in the mountains that we felt cold, even in this hot tropical country. We passed through many villages, that were literally out of this world. I don’t know how they survive. Down in the valleys there were farms. Chickens and dogs run across the roads and heaps of children.
Some houses had satellite dishes so they mustn’t be totally isolated from civilization. The houses perch on the edge of the road with a sheer drop below. Some houses are made from straw, some from sticks and some from bricks. The favorite building material was bessa blocks, I saw one house that wanted to be brick – they were painting it with brick shapes. Some houses were painted bright orange or purple or blue. Some houses were big with views to die for and the house next door might be woven straw.
The houses had shared bathrooms; barrels of water on the side of the road where mothers were bathing children, girls were having a wash wearing an elasticized towel and boys were cleaning their teeth. They really make a job of it when they clean their teeth, a few times I saw boys with toothpaste foam all over their chest and belly.
We stayed for three nights in a remote tourist village called Vang Vieng in Laos. It is so secret I haven’t even seen it’s picturesque landscape on facebook. The view from our hotel, the Silver Naga, was breathtaking. It is almost impossible to reach Vang Vieng from Luang Prabang, it is a journey not to taken on by the faint-hearted or those prone to car sickness.
We spent six hours in a mini-van navigating the most scenic route in South East Asia along an insanely winding road, up and down and between steep mountains. The road was so high up in the mountains that we felt cold, even in this hot tropical country. We passed through many villages, that were literally out of this world. I don’t know how they survive. Down in the valleys there were farms. Chickens and dogs run across the roads and heaps of children.
Some houses had satellite dishes so they mustn’t be totally isolated from civilization. The houses perch on the edge of the road with a sheer drop below. Some houses are made from straw, some from sticks and some from bricks. The favorite building material was bessa blocks, I saw one house that wanted to be brick – they were painting it with brick shapes. Some houses were painted bright orange or purple or blue. Some houses were big with views to die for and the house next door might be woven straw.
The houses had shared bathrooms; barrels of water on the side of the road where mothers were bathing children, girls were having a wash wearing an elasticized towel and boys were cleaning their teeth. They really make a job of it when they clean their teeth, a few times I saw boys with toothpaste foam all over their chest and belly.
We arrived at night and checked into the accommodation I had booked. My bed was lumpy. The shower head spurted water everywhere except on me. At dawn small motor boats, that sound like lawn mowers started taking the early morning tourists for their expeditions up the Mekong. The noise went on past breakfast time. We had been spoiled by the wonderful accommodation we had had so far. I couldn’t bear it. Over breakfast (with tang in place of orange juice) we watched in amusement and slight disbelief as a naked man waded into the river for a bath. The river is quite shallow here.
I went and had a look at the Silver Naga Hotel, up the road. I’d seen it on line and was planning on taking the girls to the yoga classes they have there and using the infinity pool. I went back and told the girls to pack up, we were checking out in 20 minutes. It cost 3 times as much but it was worth it. The Silver Naga sent a van and a porter to pick up out luggage and we absconded to luxury. We got rooms on the fifth floor overlooking the infinity pool, the river with incredible beautiful mountains of rocky cliffs and jungle. It was unbelievable beautiful, even I couldn't believe how beautiful this place was. It stays in my memory, drifting through my mind, as the most beautiful place we saw.
It is set up as a remote tourist mecca with many exciting activities. You can book inner tubing through caves, pulling yourself along by a rope, ballooning, skydiving, river boats, kayaking, trekking. There were no organized tours for our stay, everyone could choose what they wanted to do.
I went and had a look at the Silver Naga Hotel, up the road. I’d seen it on line and was planning on taking the girls to the yoga classes they have there and using the infinity pool. I went back and told the girls to pack up, we were checking out in 20 minutes. It cost 3 times as much but it was worth it. The Silver Naga sent a van and a porter to pick up out luggage and we absconded to luxury. We got rooms on the fifth floor overlooking the infinity pool, the river with incredible beautiful mountains of rocky cliffs and jungle. It was unbelievable beautiful, even I couldn't believe how beautiful this place was. It stays in my memory, drifting through my mind, as the most beautiful place we saw.
It is set up as a remote tourist mecca with many exciting activities. You can book inner tubing through caves, pulling yourself along by a rope, ballooning, skydiving, river boats, kayaking, trekking. There were no organized tours for our stay, everyone could choose what they wanted to do.
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I’d had enough adventures and would have liked to relax, but we needed some cash from the ATM so I went for a walk in the rain across the wooden rickety bridge to the other side of the river and sat under a grass thatched roof with one of the ladies while the other three went off on a motor scooter adventure to the Blue Lagoon. The sun came out in the afternoon and we traipsed along a muddy path through the fields to a yoga sala to do yoga as the sun went down with a herd of cows, dominated by the imposing mountains. The previous day had been shining sun and perfect weather to swim in the pool and absorb the replenishing energy. We had the hotel to ourselves all day.
I had dinner with 2 of the girls in a great restaurant, shrouded in vines and greenery, it felt like we were inside a green cave. We could watch the people in the street market. You could have Lao or German food. I had the best crunchy German schnitzel and for desert we shared a shammer something – a German pancake all chopped up and delicious with chocolate sauce.
The next night we all ate together down on the river, a waiter even cast his fishing net while we were eating, the fish was extremely fresh! Dinner was nice and very cheap, on 3 000 000 Lao Kip for all of us.
I had dinner with 2 of the girls in a great restaurant, shrouded in vines and greenery, it felt like we were inside a green cave. We could watch the people in the street market. You could have Lao or German food. I had the best crunchy German schnitzel and for desert we shared a shammer something – a German pancake all chopped up and delicious with chocolate sauce.
The next night we all ate together down on the river, a waiter even cast his fishing net while we were eating, the fish was extremely fresh! Dinner was nice and very cheap, on 3 000 000 Lao Kip for all of us.
Vientiane
I organized a private van to take us from Vang Vieng to the capital of Lao, Vientiane. It was a comfortable 5 hour trip, long but not as hair raisingly beautiful as the road over the mountains. We had two nights in Vientiane, one because we didn’t arrive till late afternoon, one because it was Saturday and the whole trip had been organized so I would be in Vientiane on a Saturday and very early on Sunday morning we would leave this part of the tour behind.
We went for a walk along the river and through the night market. It was a great market and the riverside was full of life, with different groups doing zumba. We came back the following night to buy some things. I got my favorite t-shirt. It is sky blue written in Lao, I don’t know what it says but the shop keeper said it says something about being happy.
For dinner we spotted a chique looking restaurant right across from our hotel. It was full of dinners but they had a table for us up the back. The menu was delectable, it was hard to choose what to eat. I had several courses and a cocktail. We had to come back the next night to try out more dishes and to celebrate my birthday, the end of the tour and bid farewell to our wonderful friend from Norway.
Vientiane is not special or spectacular, it is the political and financial capital city of a country and it doesn’t have a lot to see or do. We went to Crazy Buddha Park. We got a tuktuk along for about 45 minutes along a terrible road with lots of road work. I was feeling so ill by the time I got there, I’d been sitting over the exhaust and breathing in noxious fumes all the way. On the way back I sat up front with the driver.
The park is full of butterflies and Hindu and Buddhist Statues. They look really old, but they aren’t. They are made of concrete, built by a monk and his helpers. There is a big demon head with a mouth I crawled in through like a lizard and along narrow corridors and up ladders to the top to look at the view over the park. In the middle of the pumpkin head are rooms with clay statues of skeletons and skulls. It was quite macabre.
When we got back to the city we went to see the big golden stupa and got caught in a traffic jam. A little boy on motor bike with his brother and his mum was showing me his dinosaur. He dropped it and I jumped out of the tuktuk and gave it back to him.
The girls decided to go to a spa for the afternoon. They told me later how much they loved it. It sounded like a jungle spa and sauna.
My purpose for going on the trip was to arrive in Vientiane to spend Saturday afternoon at a monastery I had read about. I went to converse and meditate with the monks. It is the second time I have had an important spiritual experience with a master on my birthday. While I was meditating I realized I would be able to ask them a question I have been seeking the answer to for many years.
I explained that sometimes when I meditate everything vanishes, my mind becomes completely still and empty of thought, my body vanishes, it’s like everything becomes nothing, totally pure. I wanted to know where to go with my meditation as I felt I had achieved the purpose.
There was an old man sitting up the front facing the young monks. The young monk who had been leading the session asked the old man if he could answer my question. First he said that I always need to bring my focus back to my breath. I said that I understand my breath. (I follow my breath all the time, I teach other people to breath, it’s my job as a yoga teacher to be aware of the breath.) Of course the people at the session had no idea who I am.
The second thing he said is that I need to understand my thoughts. I said I understand my thoughts.
The third thing he said is that I need to understand my emotions and that thoughts and emotions are separate. I said that I understood that.
The fourth thing he said is that I need to be able to plan. I said I know how to plan. (I’d planned a whole tour to arrive at this place to be with these monks on this day.) I also understood that planning means to be able to plan the future while living in the moment.
A girl up the back chimed in. “That’s the whole point of meditation then you must be enlightened.” Like I said, these people didn’t know who I am and were looking at me incredulously.
The Old monk said that I would know what to do next. He is right. I know what to do next. I follow my inner guide and go where the universal path leads me. I also know that if I don’t know what to do then it isn’t the right time to do anything and when the right time comes then I will know what to do.
We went for a walk along the river and through the night market. It was a great market and the riverside was full of life, with different groups doing zumba. We came back the following night to buy some things. I got my favorite t-shirt. It is sky blue written in Lao, I don’t know what it says but the shop keeper said it says something about being happy.
For dinner we spotted a chique looking restaurant right across from our hotel. It was full of dinners but they had a table for us up the back. The menu was delectable, it was hard to choose what to eat. I had several courses and a cocktail. We had to come back the next night to try out more dishes and to celebrate my birthday, the end of the tour and bid farewell to our wonderful friend from Norway.
Vientiane is not special or spectacular, it is the political and financial capital city of a country and it doesn’t have a lot to see or do. We went to Crazy Buddha Park. We got a tuktuk along for about 45 minutes along a terrible road with lots of road work. I was feeling so ill by the time I got there, I’d been sitting over the exhaust and breathing in noxious fumes all the way. On the way back I sat up front with the driver.
The park is full of butterflies and Hindu and Buddhist Statues. They look really old, but they aren’t. They are made of concrete, built by a monk and his helpers. There is a big demon head with a mouth I crawled in through like a lizard and along narrow corridors and up ladders to the top to look at the view over the park. In the middle of the pumpkin head are rooms with clay statues of skeletons and skulls. It was quite macabre.
When we got back to the city we went to see the big golden stupa and got caught in a traffic jam. A little boy on motor bike with his brother and his mum was showing me his dinosaur. He dropped it and I jumped out of the tuktuk and gave it back to him.
The girls decided to go to a spa for the afternoon. They told me later how much they loved it. It sounded like a jungle spa and sauna.
My purpose for going on the trip was to arrive in Vientiane to spend Saturday afternoon at a monastery I had read about. I went to converse and meditate with the monks. It is the second time I have had an important spiritual experience with a master on my birthday. While I was meditating I realized I would be able to ask them a question I have been seeking the answer to for many years.
I explained that sometimes when I meditate everything vanishes, my mind becomes completely still and empty of thought, my body vanishes, it’s like everything becomes nothing, totally pure. I wanted to know where to go with my meditation as I felt I had achieved the purpose.
There was an old man sitting up the front facing the young monks. The young monk who had been leading the session asked the old man if he could answer my question. First he said that I always need to bring my focus back to my breath. I said that I understand my breath. (I follow my breath all the time, I teach other people to breath, it’s my job as a yoga teacher to be aware of the breath.) Of course the people at the session had no idea who I am.
The second thing he said is that I need to understand my thoughts. I said I understand my thoughts.
The third thing he said is that I need to understand my emotions and that thoughts and emotions are separate. I said that I understood that.
The fourth thing he said is that I need to be able to plan. I said I know how to plan. (I’d planned a whole tour to arrive at this place to be with these monks on this day.) I also understood that planning means to be able to plan the future while living in the moment.
A girl up the back chimed in. “That’s the whole point of meditation then you must be enlightened.” Like I said, these people didn’t know who I am and were looking at me incredulously.
The Old monk said that I would know what to do next. He is right. I know what to do next. I follow my inner guide and go where the universal path leads me. I also know that if I don’t know what to do then it isn’t the right time to do anything and when the right time comes then I will know what to do.
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We went back to the ATMOS bar for dinner, our last night all together on the tour. It was a wonderful night. We were going to order desert but they wouldn’t let us because they had a surprise for us. They had made me a birthday cake. That was the nicest thing anyone ever did for me for my birthday.
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